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willeslinger
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Jul 2, 2012
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
Last week I was climbing the 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel at Lumpy Ridge. I clipped my gri gri to the rap rings around the tat at the pitch 2 anchor. When I went to take my buddy off belay, I found the locking sleeve of the damn attaché biner was welded shut. we tried everything we could think of, but without a leatherman and pliers there wasn't anything we could do. If you found the gri gri, send me a message. I'll reward you handsomly with beer
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a d
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Jul 2, 2012
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 5
Not local, but just curious: did you try fully weighting the biner and then unscrewing it while weighted?
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Ty Morrison-Heath
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Jul 2, 2012
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Bozeman, MT
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 2,053
In the future you should try smashing it with another biner. That often will unlock it.
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Charles Vernon
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Jul 2, 2012
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Colorado megalopolis
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 2,655
FYI, I climbed that route last Friday (the 29th) and there wasn't a gri-gri at that anchor.
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NickViator
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Jul 2, 2012
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Denver, CO
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 10
You should have put some lubricant on that carabiner when it started to give you issues months ago!
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willeslinger
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Jul 3, 2012
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
Tried smashing it, spitting in it, etc. I was using that biner for my nut tool, not as a locker, but when we were racking up it got switched up with my good attaché. Oh well, if anything this removed my excuse for not replacing the gri gri. It was a hand me down from my mentor. I think it actually might have been used for rope-jumping with Dan Osman back in the day.
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Marc H
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Jul 3, 2012
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 265
alexdavis wrote:Not local, but just curious: did you try fully weighting the biner and then unscrewing it while weighted? This is a great point and definitely worth a try next time you find yourself in that situation. Did your second fall or weight the rope? Alex is alluding to the fact that if a 'biner is loaded, the gate can sometimes twist another 1/4 turn. When the biner is then unloaded, it locks the sleeve in place. Though most manufacturers have altered their biner designs to prevent this, it's still not impossible to happen. Clipping a sling to the offending biner and standing in it while you try to unlock the biner might have helped in your particular situation.
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Robert Cort
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Jul 3, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 800
alexdavis wrote:Not local, but just curious: did you try fully weighting the biner and then unscrewing it while weighted? This^^
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Caleb Padgett
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Jul 3, 2012
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Rockville, utah
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 85
No knife to cut the tat? I would have gladly left my cordalette and a rap ring/biner in exchange for my gri-gri. You may have done a good community service project as well.
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willeslinger
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Jul 8, 2012
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
Caleb Padgett wrote:No knife to cut the tat? I would have gladly left my cordalette and a rap ring/biner in exchange for my gri-gri. You may have done a good community service project as well. Yeah, no knife, left it in the car like a gumby. Hell, if Vertical Limit taught me anything, it's to always have a knife handy. Should've paid closer attention to the film's excellent technical instruction.
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JustinJD. Day
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Jul 9, 2012
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Denver
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 0
willeslinger wrote: Yeah, no knife, left it in the car like a gumby. Hell, if Vertical Limit taught me anything, it's to always have a knife handy. Should've paid closer attention to the film's excellent technical instruction. More importantly Vertical Limit teaches us that you should be the ONLY PERSON IN THE GROUP WITH A KNIFE. Just to be safe. Bummer about the Gri Gri
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