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like a screamer?

Original Post
ryan albery · · Cochise and Custer · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 290

Has anyone ever used anything like this:

shop.gear4rocks.com/en/bela…

I wouldn't trust anything from this company, but it seems the idea is sound. Maybe dyneema with a little half stitch plate built into the gear-side beaner of a draw/sling that would slide and take 500lbs off the impact of a fall? A blown out Screamer is cool to have, but for $20 a pop, not that cool.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Yeah, looks like a device similar to those sold by Kong:

kong.it/doc408.htm

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676

Looks similar to the Petzl Zyper Y Lanyard. This is meant for via ferrata.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

So.... a simulclimbing fall is similar to a via feratta fall in that the leader is usually slammed into the last piece of protection in the event that the second falls. I've often thought about if there was a smart way to use shock absorbing devices to make simulclimbing safer.

BurtMachlan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
David Appelhans wrote:So.... a simulclimbing fall is similar to a via feratta fall in that the leader is usually slammed into the last piece of protection in the event that the second falls.
Huh? There is a leader in via ferratta? Or you have a shock absorbing lanyard when you are simul climbing??? The two are really nothing alike in terms of a fall.. god help us, face palm.
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

The similarity is that when you hit the top piece in either via ferrata or simulclimbing, you get slammed into it.

That's pretty much where the similarities end though. Unless you used the shock absorber on the top piece (in which case, you put one on every piece), you'd still be putting a huge load on that piece, the weight of two falling bodies.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

Shades of Chris Tan Death Gear....

Not a new idea. This one could be used on the main rope or on a cow's tail (though the instructions don't specifically mention it).
storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe…

Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140
David Appelhans wrote:So.... a simulclimbing fall is similar to a via feratta fall in that the leader is usually slammed into the last piece of protection in the event that the second falls. I've often thought about if there was a smart way to use shock absorbing devices to make simulclimbing safer.
If I am concerned with trying to make simulclimbing "safer" that is a cue for me to start thinking about pitches and belays.

Just my opinion...
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
devkrev wrote: If I am concerned with trying to make simulclimbing "safer" that is a cue for me to start thinking about pitches and belays. Just my opinion...
true dat
David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I was just trying to brainstorm, but I should have known it would degrade into a "I'm smart and you're not" type of thread pretty quickly.

cellige · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I'd say the easiest thing for an added bit of safety is to put the kong device or screamer like device in between the sharp end and the climber. It won't limit force as much as on the piece but I guess it would be somewhere around half that, which isn't too shabby.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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