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All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > N Rabbit Ear > W Face Corner (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13)
The 5.9 crack you can use to bypass the scramble and put in a quality first pitch prior to the roof undercling pitch. It is midway up the 4th class scramble, almost directly under the corner system.
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The "Organ Grinder" - looking down on the 5.10 fist to OW crack that splits the roof on the crux pitch (traditionally the 2nd pitch, the 3rd pitch as we climbed it). There is an excellent belay station immediately above the crack.
Zach Libbin following the P1 crux undercling.
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Nathan Fry
Jul 2, 2012
“The 5.9 crack you can use to bypass the scramble and put in a quality first pitch prior to the roof undercling pitch. It is midway up the 4th class scramble, almost directly under the corner system.”  

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Nearby Photos

Organ Grinder ... more fisty, than grindy ...
Final pitch containing 3 5.10 variations that will lead you to the top. With the same general start from left to right: 1) finger crack, 2) wide fun, 3) roof slot thing.
2nd pitch
Pitch of face and crack on white rock which leads to the base of the top pitch 5.10 variations.
Rough estimate of WFC variation route. P4 is the most inaccurate, as I can't see on the photo exactly where we went. Once on the ground, it is relatively straightforward - climb the bulges/mini roofs in the gully to the left of the P3 belay, find the large ledge near the base of the Davis Route for the P4 belay. Then make a hard right and belay for P5 at the base of the white rockface (out of sight in this photo).
Andrea feeling nice after "the Organ Grinder" crack pitch.
Andrea topping out on the crack. The crack starts out with deep fist jams and gradually widens to off-width that accepts chicken-wings and knee bars near the top (as shown in photo). Protect with #2 C4 down low and #3 to #4 C4 midway and at the top.
The "Organ Grinder" - looking down on the 5.10 fist to OW crack that splits the roof on the crux pitch (traditionally the 2nd pitch, the 3rd pitch as we climbed it). There is an excellent belay station immediately above the crack.
The 5.9 crack you can use to bypass the scramble and put in a quality first pitch prior to the roof undercling pitch. It is midway up the 4th class scramble, almost directly under the corner system.
Zach Libbin following the P1 crux undercling.
West Face Corner route marked in red. Boyer's Chute is just visible on the far left.
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