Best Alpine\Easy Climbing Shoe?

The thread on the La Sportiva Exums got me thinking - what's the shoe of choice for long ridge scrambles with climbing up to 5.7\5.8? Or something I could do the approach to the Grand in comfortably and then climb Full Exum in confidently? I've looked at the LS Gandas, the 5.10 Guides, and the Garmont Stucky Dragons. Any suggestions for me?

La Sportiva Xplorer

talkinrocks wrote:La Sportiva Xplorer

+1
...though I have friends that swear by the Gandas. The Xplorer are lighter and breath better, but the Gandas will undoubtedly hold up better based on their construction. As I mentioned in the Exum Pro thread the stiching on the Xplorers needs to be reinforced for crack climbing. I haven't compared them fit or comfort wise.

talkinrocks wrote:La Sportiva Xplorer

+1

I love mine and they've held up relatively well for the past 15 months.

I am looking at the gandas for this, but if u size them for climbing they aren't supposed to hike well and vice versa. Supertopo has a good review of approach shoes.

How much better are Gandas/Xplorers than Guide Tennies? My GT's hike great and climb pretty frickin' well.

I climbed most of the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in the Five Ten Guides. I think they climb pretty well, and are light enough with soft enough uppers to stuff 'em in a small (18) pack and still have room for everything else you need for an alpine day.

They aren't the most supportive shoes if you're hiking a week's worth of stuff into the Winds, but I'm sure plenty of people have done just that in them. For fast days on ridges, they are excellent.

Sportiva's don't usually fit me very well. Most people I know have EITHER Five Ten feet OR La Sportiva feet... especially for a shoe that will be climbing 5.8. Try some on and you'll automatically narrow down your choices.

I ordered a pair of Gandas for comparison in a half size bigger than my Xplorers. First impressions (in the house) is that they 1) appear to be much more durable than the Xplorers 2) are going to provide very little cushioning in the forefoot with no room for insoles. The toe box volume is very low and I'm not sure I can even get the lacing adjusted to accommodate my fairly wide feet.

The Ganda Guide is the "official" shoes of the Exum Mountain Guides but they are using Ganda Guide with the same compound as the dot robber found on the Gandas. The Ganda guide is going to be better for longer approaches where as the Ganda will climb harder but be less comfortable on long walks.

The Xplorer is a great mid ground between the two and is also offered as a mid top with GTX.

Ulitimately the Ganda is a burlier shoe no doubt but as previously mentioned, isn't as breathable as the Xplorer.

Also the Ganda is an Italian made boot where as the Xplorer is manufactured in China. FWIW.

The talk about sizing the Ganda is true while the Xplorer can climb and hike well in the size same.

I would go 5.10 guide tennies for hiking and climbing that grade of route. If only climbing go with whatever is on sale that is a moderate shoe if you tried it and it is a good comfortable fit for you.

The Gandas are clearly very well made, but I know I need way more cushioning to keep my feet happy on alpine routes. Sadly, they are going back.

LOVE my Gandas...

more on them HERE: coloradomountainjournal.com…

followed the 10a handcrack pitch on Handcracker in them and they were as good as an old-school Fire. no prob on the 1st flatiron, followed the Green Spur in them, just fine. they're plenty cushioned for me, but try 'em on. i say they climb like an '80s Fire, hike pretty damn well. lots of guys get the high-top version, then have dot rubber resoled onto them....might be the best of both worlds....

my two cents, enjoy! p.s.--the Gecko, by SCARPA, is on sale on their site right now--climbs really really well, not as padded, though.