Tale of Two Shitties
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 37 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78 |
Page Views: | 4,266 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.
Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
5.7
Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
10.a
Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
5.9R
The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.
Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
5.7
Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
10.a
Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
5.9R
The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.
Location
Right of Bad Moon Rising there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.
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