A Good First Solo on the Flatirons

I'm contemplating my first long free solo and was looking for a route I read about long ago but can't recall the name and I can't seem to find it.

I have this vague recollection of reading that one of the easy routes in the flatirons can be bailed from at any point onto the hiking trail that skirts alongside the flatiron. Does that sound familiar to anyone? If so, which route is that?

Freeway on the 2nd

Freeway is indeed an excellent first solo. You can't "bail at any point onto the hiking trail," but you can exit into the gully that'll be just to your left. Above a certain point, though, you will be committed. That said, there are only a few moves harder than fourth class. At the top, you will be able to step down onto the hiking trail.

Without meaning to sound condescending, be absolutely positive that your head is in the right place to do this. Being keyed up as you approach the climb is fine; being excessively nervous (you'll know where the line is) is a signal you need to go for a run or do some crossword puzzles or something. I always figure I'll know for sure in the first 20 feet. If 'today' isn't the day, another day will be, and the rock will be there.

Have fun.

I think the route you are thinking of is Freeway as well.

Other possibilities include:

Stairway to Heaven (5.3). Most of this is actually easy class 5 (5.0?). However, there is one spooky sideways step about 100 feet off the deck that could be scary for a first time solo... the rest is mellow. (You could always place gear with a short rope to rope solo the 15 spooky feet).

Angel's Way (5.2). I think this is a better free solo than Stairway. It is more straightforward and less spooky. Also, you can pretty much bail from most of the route by down climbing (like stairway it is a ridge climb, so you are never that far off the ground). I seem to recall Angel's Way being easier to bail from than Stairway. This climb is subject to raptor closures, so check on that before going there...

Crag,

I know your climbing. You will have no problem on Freeway. Just stay focused and relaxed. The climbing is quite easy. Let me know if you want a partner. I need to get out. I will be in Boulder Tues, Wed and Thurs this week.

Greg

Left and Up on the Slab would be a good solo, too, but you can't bail off of it.

Another vote for "Stairway". The setting is much nicer than the 2nd, feels really wild back there. There are also periodic "flat" areas where you can take a mental and physical break which is probably what inpired the routes name besides Zepplin. What sucks is the hike out.

Agreed, Rick, Stairway is a great one. The quality of climbing is probably better than the Second, there's no comparison regarding position, and escape is definitely easier (like casual). Do beware the cactus, scree and poison ivy on the hike out.

If you can get your hands on it, Gerry Roach's "Flatiron Classics" guide is a map to hidden treasures all over the Flatirons. Many of them are as good as the First or Third, but don't get traffic because you have to find them. Nothing in there is harder than 5.8, 99% of it is much easier, and if you want to be alone, this will get you there.

Thanks for all of the input, guys. Looks like I have a few options to consider.

And, no condescension taken, Flynn. I appreciate and absolutely agree with that thought when it comes to soloing.

Greg,

If I'm climbing with you, I can't pass up on the opportunity to get on some harder gear routes and work on pushing my ability. But, Freeway might make for a fun cool down lap after a handful of harder pitches on the 3rd, no? Northwest Passage and Ph.D. Roof look like they might be fun.

Not sure if I'd be able to play hooky this week but I'll look into it and text you.

Cheers,
Craig

Crag Dweller wrote:But, Freeway might make for a fun cool down lap after a handful of harder pitches on the 3rd, no? Northwest Passage and Ph.D. Roof look like they might be fun. Not sure if I'd be able to play hooky this week but I'll look into it and text you. Cheers, Craig

Freeway is great...
This route is really fun too East Ridge
Pretty easy with cool position as you go over the arch. You can just walk off or if you are feeling bold, continue up Yodeling moves...

Julius Beres wrote: The third is closed until August for raptors.

i recommend for first solos to go with a friend. It totally helps to have someone to talk to and takes your mind off of the falling to your death, bouncing off rocks on the way down scenarios.

I know I only climbed with you a couple of times, but you are clearly a very chill and together guy. I think you'll have a great time. Best of luck, and be sure to give us all a TR afterward!

Offer's still open for showing you around the Gunks anytime. Thanks again for making our trip to CO so fantastic. It would have basically been a wash without you!

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:Thanks again for making our trip to CO so fantastic. It would have basically been a wash without you!