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Hourglass Direct
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 9
votes
Routes in 05: Pedestal Buttress
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All The Way T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Angle of the Dangle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Assume the Position T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birch Tree Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blow-up T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney's End T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Condolences T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Congratulations T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creation Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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D.L.F.A T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dog, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dyslexia TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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End Of The End, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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End, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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F4 Ledges T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flake Route T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Golden Ledges T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hourglass T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hourglass Direct TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ironmongers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lethe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Diagonal T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Art TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pedestal, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pete's Lament TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pine Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rich and Famous TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometime Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sometime Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sometimes Left Side TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sometimes Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stretcher, The TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweatshop T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Upper Diagonal T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welfare Line TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 922 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Hourglass Direct climbs the blank face just to the left of Birch Tree Crack. Though a far less asthetic variation starts by climbing to the alcove on Birch Tree and then moving left to the face, the direct version (starting right off the ledge) presents a more inspiring line.
Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.
The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.
Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.
The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.
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