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Routes in 02: The Guillotine
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Annie's Overhang T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barefoot Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Beginner's Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Beginner's Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Beginner's Nose TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Broken Boulders T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Broken Boulders Variation TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Corner, The TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty 30 Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Guillotine 49 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Labor Pains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Layback, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Levitation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Levitation Right Side T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Makeover T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a V0 4 |
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Pike, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poison Ivy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rhus Toxicodendron Radicans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,026 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | James on Jan 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Climb the offwidth crack to the right of Broken Boulders. Guide book says 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, 5.7 if done as a pure layback. I have climbed approximately 60 routes at Devil's Lake so I know the ratings are stiff here, but this route is in the running for one of the hardest 5.4's on the planet. I will go back and lead it before passing final judgement.
Location
The route is just to the right of Broken Boulders. Coming in from the west walk along the base passing an outside corner (Poison Ivy 5.5). Here the base becomes a ledge, walk along this slightly exposed ledge to the next outside corner (5.7 corner). Pass Broken Boulders and look for the offwidth crack to the right. Walk off to the left, head left and down before you reach the Monster Wall.
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