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shoulder soreness/weakness

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

To clarify further for anyone else that finds themselves with this type of injury:

I did some reading last night, tendinopathy is a general term for an injury of the tendon. Tendinopathy can refer to both tendinitis and tendinosis. The suffix "itis" refers to inflammation which is what I have. Average recovery time of tendinitis in the rotator cuff is 2-4 weeks.

Tendinosis on the other hand is a chronic failure to heal and the pain is caused by repeated micro tears. Recovery time for one to produce more collagen (tendon) is on average 100 days and some say it never is as strong as it was before the injury. NSAIDs and ice won't do much for the injury because it's not caused by inflammation. The only thing that really helps is stretching the tendon across the grain and having patience.

I stopped working out about 6 months ago because I thought climbing was enough of a workout. This was where I went wrong although my posture has been bad long before this. I was working my front upper body muscles while climbing all the while the musculature around my scapulas became non-existant. This allowed my the head of the humerus to slide forward in the socket and cause the tendonitis from repeated use of my arms over my head.

The healing process they have me on for the tendonitis is first and foremost to correct my posture and build back muscles. Every other day I'm doing band workouts to strengthen the shoulder and improve flexibility in the rotator cuff (compromised of 4 tendons). I'm also supposed to stretch everyday and apply ice and NSAIDs as often as I feel soreness. I'm also going to physical therapy once a week.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

welcome to the club nick, your membership card is in the mail :) i have been pretty consistent doing my exercises and stretching over the last 6 months and overall i think it has been pretty helpful. keep us posted on how things are going.

MeganLM Morin · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

Hey Nick, I've been looking around on here and came across your post. I'm pretty sure I have a mild case of rotator cuff tendinitis as well. Right now I'm in Chile, so I can't really go to my normal doctor or a physical therapist that I know. I was just wondering if you could maybe tell me what types of physical therapy activities you did and how much time you took off before you started climbing again. I managed to find a theraband and have been doing basic activities with that and trying to ice a lot. Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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