Type: Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979
Page Views: 5,127 total · 33/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.

P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).

P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).

P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).

P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).

P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).

From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.

Location Suggest change

Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of The Scenic Cruise. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.

Protection Suggest change

- (1) Good set of Stoppers
- (2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot
- (1) #4 & #5 Camalot.

Photos

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