Chasm Lake to the Diamond

I have never laid eyes upon her but am f@3#ckn stoked to get up on it (her?) in late July. May only have time for one route...

I was looking through pictures here on MP but haven't seen any pics that outline the routes that go up it. Whats the proudest line? I'm specifically looking for one of those .11's but want one that goes straight up the middle. Most bang for your buck, aesthetically, and quality of route. Don't care for the casual route...

Yellow Wall

D7

You will like.....

While D1 has what you want, don't discount Pervertical or Integral having what you need. This gal doesn't bend over easily, so don't expect her to drop her kit just at the sight of you. There are plenty of stories of suitors getting the slap-down. Be safe.

MIYG wrote:one of those .11's ... straight up the middle

Yellow Wall would be my pick for a first wall - great rock!

Paul

Dusty, You're crazy, man. I like you, but you're crazy.

Yep, Yellow Wall was, on first impression, the go to. Trust me, I am a fair bit worried about getting the ol' Charles Barkley because of the elevation.

+ 1 for D1. It is a proud line. There is a reason it has the number 1!

As for the altitude. The climb will be much easier and more pleasant if you acclimate before you go. Consider getting to altitude for extended periods at least several days and maybe a week prior to the climb. Sure - many people go straight up and are fine, but with acclimatization you’ll avoid a bad experience and it may even be fun.

Are people climbing on the Diamond right now, or is Broadway / N. Chimney sketchy still?

Black dagger is a pretty damn good line that goes straight up the middle of the Yellow Wall area and has amazing climbing. For consistent quality of climbing it's probably the best I've done up there. The Obelisk column routes may have the best individual pitches but not quite as good down low.

I'm planning on Bivy'n at Chasm lake and hiking up to the diamond. Is there anything I need to know? Any unknown obstacles waiting to thwart my aspirations?

We are going for Pervertical.

Be sure you take the North Chimney and not Fields. A common mistake that can significantly change the character of the approach.

Something to keep in mind. You need a bivy permit unless you do car to car. Also the weather can be very interesting and move in fast. Be prepared.

Princess Mia wrote: Also the weather can be very interesting and move in fast. Be prepared.

Thanks for the heads up. I have a bivy permit and have printed some pics of the N. Chimney. We may end up doing Directissima if weather looks to be a factor, but I'm making this drive to do the DIAMOND (well, and to listen to some bluegrass)

If any of you have done this approach, how long does it take and what time did you start moving??

Thanks again.

Good luck, and cross your fingers on the weather. When we went to try the Casual Route on the Diamond a few years back everyone said the weather "was like clockwork", that a large thunderstorm would start "at 2pm" every day. The forecast seemed to corroborate this, as it said 20% chance of rain after noon. We figured no problem, we slept at Chasm View, rapped in to Broadway by headlamp, and planned to climb fast (most pitches on Casual are supposed to be easy) and be long gone from the top at 2pm. Clockwork my ass! The skies unloaded with rain and lightning starting at 6:30am! We bailed after pitch one, but since our stuff was at Chasm View we had to climb several pitches of somewhat loose 5.6 or 5.7 sideways in the rain to get back up to the boulder field that led to our stuff.

Good luck and I hope you have better weather than we did!

I can't stress it enough...... The Diamond is not just a big wall, it is high altitude climbing.

Plan on having many alternative options. Know all escape/descent options. And plan for wet biviing....... You can't start early enough, excellent headlamps with new batteries are mandatory.

Also, the local rodents are famous for getting to your food so hang it!!!!

But yes, she is a beautiful piece of rock......especially at sunrise.......

Dude! You seem like you're still looking for beta.....you should just push back the climb till later in the week ; Head over to Neptune's.....Gary is giving a thorough presentation on "Diamond Routes/ tips and tricks".

Here it from one of the badasses himself.
Pictures...questions/answers...

Just a thought.
Have fun, it's kickass up there!~!

Good luck! Consider yourself extremely lucky to get up your first time without any sort of minor epic. The Diamond is no joke, and while you might be a solid .11 or .12 climber at a lower elevation, it'll lay you out at 13,000+ feet. Don't scoff at the Casual. It's a great route, a serious undertaking, and there are even easier routes on Chasm View wall that would be better introductions to high altitude alpine climbing.

Consider this, it's a pretty strenuous little hike of about five miles just to get to the base of the North Chimney. Then it's well over a few hundred feet of low fifth class on loose terrain. If you're not the first party in the North Chimney, then have fun dodging missiles coming down. Soloing it to save time?! Oh, cool! Footholds will just shear off at random for you. Only then, many hours later, you're at the base of the climb you wanted to do.

Not familiar with the rappels down the Diamond?! Oh, no problem. Some of the bolt hangers are camouflaged for your convenience! You brought a headlamp!? Neat! It'll magically malfunction, regardless of your fresh batteries. Now what?! Well, after a four hour rappel that should have taken one hour, you get to enjoy the open shiver bivy on Broadway. Be lulled to sleep by the sound of falling skull-crushing boulders clattering off the rocks around you. Don't worry, sunrise is at 5am-ish. Just hope you're not in a serious state of hypothermia by then.

Cheers!

PS I love the Diamond, and I do sincerely hope you're one of the lucky people who get to go up their first time and have everything go right. However, do at least go prepared to be like the rest of us schmucks who get to remember their first or second or third Diamond experience as a harrowing tale of survival and man-on-man cuddling for warmth. =p

Thanks Tony, great story.

Bailed just before the crux pitch.. ran for the treeline, lightening overhead, gear clanking on my side. So it goes... :)

(I'll be back)