Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
FA: W. Shand, Roy Gorin, P. Flinchbaugh, 1942
Page Views: 20,007 total · 94/month
Shared By: Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A great moderate climb. Be wary of loose blocks, especially those that are on the middle pitches 3-5 (a bolt on P5 marks a particular dangerous block directly above it) . Many variations exist to avoid loose rock while keeping the grade manageable. 

Start about 30m left of Whodunit.

P1: An easy pitch (5.0) leads to a belay beneath a series of overlaps at a small mountain mahogany (35m). 

P2: Follow the crack (aiming for another small mountain mahogany) through the overhangs and belay at the base of a deep crack that doglegs sharply to the right (35m). 

P3: Take the dogleg crack to the left-facing corner and follow this crack system until progress is blocked by overhangs (35m).

P4: Traverse 10 ft left, then up through the overhang (5.7), or avoid some loose blocks by climbing directly up from the belay through the overhang, then traverse left to meet up with the left crack (5.9). Take this crack for about 20m, passing one set of "closely spaced pins" and several pitons (40m).

P5: Climb up and right across a face to the base of an obvious chute, then past the "superfluous bolt" (careful to avoid the loose block above it). Follow a groove past a stuck Metolius purple cam. Belay at a comfortable ledge below a low-angle deep chimney (30m).

P6: Take the chimney to 4th class crack diagonals up and left to the top (60-70m).

Standard decent via Friction Route of North Gully.

Location Suggest change

Begin 45 feet right of the Error and 15 ft left of an obvious crack/corner system.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack to 3". No fixed anchors. Walk down descent by Friction Route or North Gully.

Photos

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