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Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress
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Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | Bob Ahearn and Chris Graham May 2012 |
| Page Views: | 772 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Bob A on Jun 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This a variation start to Todd Swain's route "Land Ahoy" ( see Websters '87 [2ne ed.] guidebook) Fun trad variation up the left side of the "rainbow" arch on the Gully#1 buttress to join at at top of the arch to Swain's Land Ahoy.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch. Protect, then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy. Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.
Swain's route "Land Ahoy" starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch. Climb straight up the face(5.7R) to the top of the arch, protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.
Start at the small weakness at toe of the slab on left,up this trending right to the start of the arch. Protect, then up the arch to the top to join Land Ahoy. Pull that crux and climb straight up past two well spaced bolts to a two bolt rap anchor on left.
Swain's route "Land Ahoy" starts at the base of the slab,right of the arch. Climb straight up the face(5.7R) to the top of the arch, protect and continue on up past two bolts to the anchor on left.
Location
The route starts below and left of the obvious flake/arch on the Gully#1 buttress.Rappell with two ropes or with one using the Part the Sea anchor down and left below the grassy terrace,then down and left through the clean streak.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.
To find the Gully 1 buttress,look for a large pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail to Hattie's Memorial Garden(10 min),turn right for approx. 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage and look for a small clearing on the left with a cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.
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