Best Mixed Use Pack? Cragging, Multi-Pitch, and some Alpine
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Hi All, |
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The Deuter Guide 45+ pretty much exactly fits what you describe. I love mine. |
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I think an alpine pack is going to be a whole lot smaller than a cragging pack. I prefer about a 35 liter pack for alpine, and that is only to accomodate a large jacket for being warm while resting. I love a huge pack for cragging so I can fit rope, full double rack, and lots of food with a good suspension. But definitely, the 45 liter size pack could do all of those things. Just underpack it for alpine. |
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In my experience, any suspension with good ventilation isn't going to carry well. Ventilation requires air flow along your back. A pack that carries well will stick to you back. |
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Stich wrote:I think an alpine pack is going to be a whole lot smaller than a cragging pack. I prefer about a 35 liter pack for alpine, and that is only to accomodate a large jacket for being warm while resting. I love a huge pack for cragging so I can fit rope, full double rack, and lots of food with a good suspension. But definitely, the 45 liter size pack could do all of those things. Just underpack it for alpine.That's a very good point. I never feel the need to fill ALL the space available to me, so 45L still seems like a great bet, it just needs an excellent compression system. As far as the Deuter Guide 45+: I've heard good things; it was actually the recommendation of the guy that taught me to climb. The added loop attachment points on the top of the brain seem brilliant, and unique from the Mammut Trion Guide 45+7. I think I'll put the Deuter on my list to try on... Now I just have to find where - any Boulderites know? |
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Kai Larson wrote:In my experience, any suspension with good ventilation isn't going to carry well. Ventilation requires air flow along your back. A pack that carries well will stick to you back. Also, a crag pack needs to be burly, because you're going to abuse it. Side zip access is also good for a crag pack. Stuff like this makes them heavy. Alpine packs need to be light, which generally means less durable, and without things like side access zippers. If you tried on the Mammut Trion Guide and liked it, then why not get it? Fit is key, and if it fits, and has the attributes you like, you're 90%of the way there.I understand that logically, these things are contradictory. But good companies keep turning out new and innovative things so why not reach for the stars. I'll keep in mind that each of the attributes I listed often involve trade-offs. If it turns out I can't have everything I want, I'll just go with the best of my options, or start my own pack company. Thanks for the input! Thanks for the input! |
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Alex and Kona wrote: I think I'll put the Deuter on my list to try on... Now I just have to find where - any Boulderites know?Go to Neptune Mountaineering. They'll have other packs you can try too. |
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I recently traded in my Osprey Talon for a Black Diamond Epic 45 and I am very satisfied. It has all the features you want in a climbing pack and none of the frills. It is a top load only but if you don't mind digging through your pack at the crag it is definitely a work horse of a pack. Also, its made for alpine ascents and has all the features you want there; dual axe carrier, crampon carrier, rope strap, removable hip belt, etc. And the suspension is super solid and has the ball joint hip belt which really moves with you. I am super satisfied with this pack and would recommend it to anyone. Hope this helps. Also it comes in sweet colors and has a reflective logo for approaches in the dark. |
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Also, it has haul loops. |
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The Cilogear 40L packs will do what you want. They carry big loads well, and strip/compress down to nothing. |
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Personally, I think it's best to have 2 packs. |
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Thanks for directing me to Neptune Mountaineering. I was able to try on the Mammut Trion Guide 45+7 and the Deuter Guide 45+. They're remarkably similar packs: great compression system, comfortable suspension system when over-loaded, removable aluminum frame, side zip access to the main top-loaded compartment, bladder-bag slot, gear loops on the waist strap, daisy chains on the exterior, ice ax retention, nearly waterproof, and really burly. |
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Deuter Guide 35 or 45. Best packs ever!!! |
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whatever fits yr back, is reasonably priced and durable, and has the features you want ... |
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It seems pretty hard to find a pack that will actually fit all the things you want, so I would focus on size and fit. I can use something about 55L to get in enough gear for a 4+ day alpine climb and still works for a trip to the crags. It would be way to big for multi-pitch, but unless you are doing MP in an alpine environment where you need a lot of extra gear, I would suggest a small camelback type pack or bullet pack for that. Overall take a look at size and see what packs fit you the best. I have owned Osprey, BD, Mammut, and Dueter and they all work well, just depends on what fits your body. Overall I personally shy away from bells and whistles and like clean design to save weight. Check out Neptune, Bent Gate in Golden and my personal fav... Wilderness Exchange in Denver. Good Luck |
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Jaren, |
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Osprey packs have both great suspension and total airflow. Check em out. I've had mine for a while and it's been great. |
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I use the mountain hardware diretissima(the large ends up at 49 liters with the brain on, small is 40). I have been through TONS of packs and stopped at this one for climbing in general. It has all the features I realized I wanted: a big space to store gear in, super rugged but super lightweight(it strips down to 1.5 lbs WITH a wire frame still after plastic sheet is out. Brain is removable and it converts into a still waterproof roll top. Hip belt removable and comes with Ul one.) Great compression, ice tool mounting systems that hold anything. The material where crampons might be is so bomber. Almost like a roughed up patent leather. Stowable compression straps. RATED HAUL LOOPS. And a lovely daisy chain right down the center. Not enough packs have daisy chains anymore iMO. Snow shovel pocket. Will fit certain ones only I have discovered but I use it as a wet store. Has biner loops on the waist belt!!! Hydration pocket or just long pocket. Awesome design. Truly a minimal alpinists tool box. |
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Vaude hard rock if you can find them. Or maybe they don't make them anymore. The helmet strap is useless and buckle broke first time and I cut the rest of it off but other than that its a decent pack. Good luck finding anything durable enough to haul that is comfortable. |
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I have a Cold Cold World Valdez, had it forever and it has everything I need for an all-rounder; holds 2 axes, a pair of crampons, has an extendable sleeve for unplanned bivis, has side straps fro skis or poles, two top zipper compartments, one inside one on top, removable closed cell foam pad for sitting on at camp or the unplanned bivi (no I'm not obsessed). |
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Darren Mabe wrote: Good luck finding anything durable enough to haul that is comfortable.My direttissima is comfy, SUPER durable, and has haul loops. With the summit hipbelt attached its a breeze to haul, even drag up slab. |