Using double ropes as twins
|
I have a set of Petzl dragonflys (double ropes) I've been using for trad for a couple years now. If the route wonders, I use them as double ropes but if the route is straight, I use them as twin ropes (ie clipping them together into each piece). |
|
I am just suppressed that you have gotten a couple of years out of some Petzl Dragonfly's! |
|
My 2 cents is its going to hold. I mean its not as if the rope is going to snap?I hear it stresses the gear more, but I'm sure it's not close to the 10-14kn most gear is rated at. I'd be more worried about that senario on ice. Ive climbed that way many times with no issue on both ice and rock. The impact force may vary, but unless your running things out 20-30 ft im sure its not that signifigant. I now climb with the Sterling Photo Fusions which are rated as both twin/half. It's a great solution to this problem. |
|
I've heard of that as well but, never really gave it much thought. When I am climbing on double ropes on route that is straight, I usually just alternate which rope I clip. Kind of nice if you want to clip a piece high as you won't have an armload of slack out on the previously clipped rope if you slip. |
|
There is no such thing as double ropes. There are ropes rated as "twin ropes" and "half ropes"; some are rated as both. Both twins and half are used as a pair, but clipped differently. Using twins as halfs, or visa versa, can impart high impact forces on your pro. Find out what ropes you have and learn the difference between halfs and twins. |
|
BirdDog wrote:There is no such thing as double ropes. There are ropes rated as "twin ropes" and "half ropes"; some are rated as both. Both twins and half are used as a pair, but clipped differently. Using twins as halfs, or visa versa, can impart high impact forces on your pro. Find out what ropes you have and learn the difference between halfs and twins.To clarify, I use the terms "doubles" or "halfs" to mean the same thing, I've heard both. I would never use twins as halfs/doubles but I'm wondering about using halfs/doubles as twins, if that helps. Double/half: Twins: |
|
I have a pair of Mammut Genesis 8.5mm half ropes. Mammut says you can use them as half ropes (DRT) or as twins. I've done both but usually use them as half ropes. |
|
BirdDog wrote:There is no such thing as double ropes. There are ropes rated as "twin ropes" and "half ropes"; some are rated as both.Then why is it called DRT (Double Rope Technique) and SRT (Single Rope Technique)? |
|
mammut.ch/en/ropes_dynamic_…
Half (Double) Ropes: "But here you have the choice between twin rope technique, where both ropes run parallel through the protection and half rope technique, where the «left» and «right» ropes run separately through different protection points." |
|
BirdDog wrote:There is no such thing as double ropes. There are ropes rated as "twin ropes" and "half ropes"...YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWN!!!! |
|
wivanoff wrote: Then why is it called DRT (Double Rope Technique) and SRT (Single Rope Technique)?SRT is using one rope; DRT is using two ropes, either two twins, or two half ropes. OP - I beleive most ropes rated as doubles can be used as twins, with slightly higher impact forces. One of the rope manufactures had some stats on this, can't remember which one. |
|
"Double rope technique" is commonly understood to mean the technique used with double/half ropes. That is, clipping one at a time. |
|
This topic comes up every year or so, and most folks are quick to point out the concern with the higher impact force. And rightly so. |
|
Here's what I got from Steph Davis blog citing Dave Furman, Mammut USAs hardgood expert. |
|
It's just because they don't stretch as much. It has the same effect as using a single piece of less dynamic rope, which transmits higher forces to the piece of gear. |
|
What happens if you clip both ropes together ? |
|
The Dread Pirate Killis wrote: but three ropes through one biner is EXTRA safe, and four is just dandy!YESSSSS!!!! I like quarter ropes....... Nothing beats the extra safety of dragging four skinny ropes up the climb, the versatility to clip any of the four and the safety added when all four are clipped to one binder is indeed sooooo dandy.......... |
|
There is a great post in this thread by RGold on Double Ropes. |
|
To finish the thought, I reached out to Petzl and here is the response I got: |
|
Galen Rahmlow wrote: It is advised to NEVER alternate these two techniques on the same pitch. This is due to the fact that a fall could cause abrasion between the ropes where they are clipped to the same piece, but moving at different rates."This is what I understood to be true as well. |
|
Hello (insert name),
you had a question on your Mammut rope Phoenix 8mm and whether it can be used in twin and half rope technique in one single pitch. This is the case, you can always clip the two rope strands as twins, then split them as doubles, join again etc. This is exactly the advantage of half ropes compared to twin ropes where you always need to clip both ropes. Hope this helps you, best regards from Switzerland, (insert name) Freundliche Grüsse / Kind regards (insert name) Productmanager Climbing Equipment guess my mammuts are "special" ;) sure glad i bought dead elephants instead of pretzels =P |