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> Adirondacks
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Bloody Mary
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 106
votes
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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7 year itch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Air Male S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Ancient of Days T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Arch Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Autumn Flare T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bastard T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Bloody Mary T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Borderline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bushido T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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C-Tips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Calvary Hill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Casual Observer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Certified Raw T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chik'n Garbonzo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cirrhosis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cooney-Norton T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmopolitan Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Discord T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Earthly Night S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Extreme Unction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fastest Gun, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Firing Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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FM, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Foreplay T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freedom Flight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gamesmanship T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gathering, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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God's Grace (Pure and Simple) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grapes of Wrath T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Green Onion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Group Therapy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gun Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gun Control Now T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Home Rule S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Home Run Derby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Howling, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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In Vivo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Junior Varsity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Karmic Kickback T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Keep Off Flake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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La Spirale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Lex Luther T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost Chance aka The Natural T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Macho T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Macrobiotic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Maestro T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mayflower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Menace To Sobriety S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mogster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Morning Star T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Munchky Microarete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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P.T. Pillar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pandemonium T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paralysis T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pearly Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pentecostal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Phase III T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pilgrim's Progress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psalm 32 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Psychosis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Puppies on Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ragtime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Raindance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raptor's Scream S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rapture, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Salad Days S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Scallion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sea of seams S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shark Week T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sharpening the Blade T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Smallville Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Smear Campaign T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Snake Slide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snake, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Snatch, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Son of a Mother T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Son of Slime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Hospitality p1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Static Cling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sting, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Break T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sunburst Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thunderhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Time Jumpers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ukiah S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Under the Influence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Varsity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Verdon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Waterloo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | John Turner, Dick Strachan, and Dick Wilmott 1959 |
| Page Views: | 14,719 total · 74/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Paralyzing positioning, sustained climbing, and impeccable rock make this route one of Poke-O's finest vertical jaunts.
As you climb, remind yourself that for 15 years, this route stood as the hardest climb in the Adirondacks.
Pitch 1:
Begin roughly 100 feet to the right and uphill from Gamesmanship, and roughly 100 feet to the left of The Fastest Gun. Spot the curving dihedral high on the route (the 2nd pitch), this is what you are aiming for.
Climb the broken corner and hand cracks to the left of the corner to a nice belay ledge below the massive, curving dihedral.(Note: You need to build an anchor here). (5.6 / 40 feet)
Pitch 2:
The gem of the route. Climb off the belay ledge and into the dihedral. Continue up the sustained corner until you reach a welcomed rest mid-pitch. Aim for the small, left-facing corner. Gain this and climb it with similar difficulty to a semi-hanging belay at chains. (5.9+ / 110 feet)
(NOTE: MOST PARTIES RAP FROM THE TOP OF THE 2ND PITCHES THE UPPER PITCHES ARE RATHER DIRTY AND LOOSE!!)
Pitch 3:
If you want to continue...climb the tight dihedral until easier rock is reached. Belay here at another small ledge. (5.8 / 80 feet)
Pitches 4, 5, and 6
Scramble over some loose, dirty rock to gain the upper pitches of Gamesmanship (5.7 PG/R), or continue out right to meet up with The Fastest Gun (5.10).
Descent:
If you plan to go to the top of the cliff. Use the same rap station as Gamesmanship or The Fastest Gun. Both require two 60 meter ropes for rappelling.
As you climb, remind yourself that for 15 years, this route stood as the hardest climb in the Adirondacks.
Pitch 1:
Begin roughly 100 feet to the right and uphill from Gamesmanship, and roughly 100 feet to the left of The Fastest Gun. Spot the curving dihedral high on the route (the 2nd pitch), this is what you are aiming for.
Climb the broken corner and hand cracks to the left of the corner to a nice belay ledge below the massive, curving dihedral.(Note: You need to build an anchor here). (5.6 / 40 feet)
Pitch 2:
The gem of the route. Climb off the belay ledge and into the dihedral. Continue up the sustained corner until you reach a welcomed rest mid-pitch. Aim for the small, left-facing corner. Gain this and climb it with similar difficulty to a semi-hanging belay at chains. (5.9+ / 110 feet)
(NOTE: MOST PARTIES RAP FROM THE TOP OF THE 2ND PITCHES THE UPPER PITCHES ARE RATHER DIRTY AND LOOSE!!)
Pitch 3:
If you want to continue...climb the tight dihedral until easier rock is reached. Belay here at another small ledge. (5.8 / 80 feet)
Pitches 4, 5, and 6
Scramble over some loose, dirty rock to gain the upper pitches of Gamesmanship (5.7 PG/R), or continue out right to meet up with The Fastest Gun (5.10).
Descent:
If you plan to go to the top of the cliff. Use the same rap station as Gamesmanship or The Fastest Gun. Both require two 60 meter ropes for rappelling.
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