Your perfect Shoe quiver?

I love climbing shoes! But I can never seem to have the perfect quiver! Probably cause I rarely pay full price for shoes, but instead I buy what I find on sale. So what shoe would you fill for each of the following categories, especially considering the rock on the eastside (BISHOP!).

Bouldering

Long Sport (techy-vertical)

Hard Trad (fingers and techy, around 5.10/11-, hard for me!)

Long Routes 5-10 pitches of 5.9/10-

I've got about 17 pairs of shoes in the gear closet right now, many of them duplicates (actually probably 3-4 pairs each of mocs and velcros from brand new to a few pitches shy of resole time). Could probably pare that down to five or six models and be happy enough:

Moccasyms - ringlock to fist cracks

Anasazi velcro -techy, sport, less steep bouldering, gym, combo of smearing and edging where I need a less stiff shoe

Ansaszi verde - mixed trad routes, longer routes, thin cracks, all day routes

Anasaszi blanco - techy thin face and difficult edging, occasionally thin cracks. A very stiff edging machine. Basically the replacement for the pink shoe.

Quantum - steep bouldering and sport, this is a stiff downturned shoe and the only downturned FiveTen that fits my foot...the dragon, team, etc last doesn't work for me, and the Arrowhead despite being almost the same last as the anasazis doesn't work for me because of where the edge of the rand rubber hits my toe.

Grandstone - all day comfy, moderates, or wide

Rogue - cheap and comfy gym shoe. Very impressed with these for the price, perfect for a gym beater shoe.

Acopa JBs - when I need a stiffer high top than the Grandstone (which despite several reviews here are NOT very stiff, especially for a high top).

Here's a few of them (no blancos or rogues in this pic, they were in the pack and gym bag respectively)

i'm pretty much like WillS. pile of shoes in the closet. i even have about 2 or 3 pairs of a few models, brand new, on standy.... just in case......

here's my roster:
5.10 galileos - i have about 3 pairs each of 3 sizes - loose, medium, and tight. the loose i can wear all day and i use them for up to 10d or so. the mediums i can wear for pretty long periods and i use them for up to 11d or so, or working harder routes for extended periods of time, etc. my tight ones i have to be a little careful with. ie, i don't wear them in the sun, i don't wear them if i am going to work a route and be in them for too long, etc. god i love this pair, just wish my toes wouldn't cry like nancy kerrigan so easily.

la sportiva katanas, really loose. my desert thin crack shoes.

mad rock purple slippers, some old yelllow trango slippers, etc. use these for thin hands desert cracks, all around desert shoes.

5.10 copperheads, loose. use these for easy desert cracks.

old 5.10 altia high tops. ow.

evolve defy. my easy/warmup shoe for the gym.

Bouldering: Evolv Shamans

Long Sport: TC Pros, pair of Evolv Geshidos in the mail that might take their place

Hard Trad: TC Pros (or sometimes 5.10 Copperheads)

Long Routes: TC Pros or Copperheads

FWIW, my climbing partner only has Grandstones, uses them for everything, and is a prime example of shoes not being a limiting factor if you find a model that really work for you. If I had to only have one pair, it'd be the TC Pros.

SO right now I currently have a pair of:

Solutions for steep bouldering (found em for a great price!,suck on 50% of buttermilks bouldering)

Katana Lace-up for vertical/slabby bouldering (comfortable to stand in but compress my foot in a way that hurts bones above my arch if I sports climb in them)

I've been climbing in a pair of somewhat comfortable Galileos on vert sports climbs, they have softened up quite a bit which causes the joint of my big toe on my left foot to hurt for several days if the routes are at all slabby, stupid feet).

I just bought a pair of Scarpa Vapor V's in a size 46 (just brought to the US!!!) so these will likely be my new sport climbing shoe, and maybe bouldering since my Katana Lace is almost due a resole.

My current trad shoe is a pair of Sportiva Miura's in a size 46 (about a 1/2 to 1 full size bigger than I would want for Sports climbing). I really like the thin crack ability of this shoe, and the edging/slab ability but I want to remove the shoe at every belay.

I don't have a pair of shoes that I want to wear on long routes, but I may have to use my Mythos that are too big and resoled (I think my feet need to be stronger!).

The TC Pro would be great, but I've heard that the TC pro has a boxy toebox that doesn't fit in small cracks, which may or may not be terribly important, i wish they made the Miura in a 46.5 or 47 (which they may make for europe???).

My gear-whore'ness is really slipping, I really only climb in one pair of shoes. I've never felt like I climb even close to the limits of my shoes. Maybe I need to step it up and buy another pair of shoes.

Yikes.

I have one pair of Miura VXs right now that I use for bouldering, sport, and trad. I might buy a pair of TC Pros this summer.

I don't see the need to have $1,200 worth of climbing shoes in my closet.

I would suggest muira lace for or vs for sport bouldering or thin trad. A tight bit not painfull tcpro for multi pitch and crack climbing. When I say not painfull I mean flat toes so your foot is thin and can slide into thin cracks. And I have a pair of myths for casual outings to save my rubber on sending shoes. Or for hand cracks.

Jake Jones wrote: Try 'em with socks. I know it's totally unstylish, but Mythos stretch like hell. I wear a 12.5/13 in most regular shoes and I bought a 44 in Mythos and they stretched 2 full sizes. When I want a tighter fit on them, I wear a pair of socks. Seems to work pretty well.

Usually I try to only carry about 3 pairs of shoes on me but this is my preferred setup:

Warm-Up for everything, Trad, Multi Pitch: 5.10 Moccasym

Mid level to Harder sport, mid level bouldering, hard slab: Muiras

Ultra hard bouldering: Solutions

That being said I could probably just get away with a pair of Muira lace-ups. I also have a pair of speedsters that I picked up for super cheap and I find they are great for roof climbing, toe hooks, heel hooks, etc.

I have several pairs, 5.10 accesnts, moccs, mythos, muiras, and katanas.
I keep reaching for my Muiras every time. They edge well, smear well, jam ok enough for me and are comfortable for all day mulipitch.
For me muira lace ups fit my foot perfectly.

instead of counting sheep last night, i counted the number of pairs i have had over the years. i got up to 42, but then fell asleep. worked like a charm!

The Dread Pirate Killis wrote:The endless shoe discussion. Ecch. This was just a warmup for the OP, now he's three posts in in a week about shoes, seperate forums. Impressive dedication.

I just want to say that this whole thread makes me feel better about the 11 pairs of shoes I own. My (non-climber) friends always make fun of me when they come over and see my collection.