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W Mass grades- Sunbowl

Original Post
mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

Any wmass'ers keen to give me a quick left to right rundown on grades at the Sunbowl? I am thinking of heading out there this weekend and I'd love to know what I'm hoping on. I seem to remember that the hardest line is in the 11 range, yes?

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725

i have an old handwritten topo somewhere at home but i do think the hardest route is 11b or maybe 11c. great session to do all the routes...

I will try to find the topo tonight.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

of course you do joe...

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

This will be a little off but bare with me, furthermost left is a 5.6ish slab climb, the two to the right of that are 5.7-5.8ish but I dont remember climbing them so...,

to the right of that should be a 5.8 seperated but oddly traversing jugs with bad intermediates which is starts to the right of the obvious crack

to the right of that should be mono pocket 5.10 climb=the mono you clip off of is either second or third bolt,

in between these two climbs is a large block of stone where you can sit

to the right of that is a 5.11a=hardest route and looks relatively blank around bolt 3-4,

right of that is a fun 5.9/5.9+ should be right in front/leftish of a large tree

the rest of the climbs to the right are around 5.7-5.8

hope that helps!

mnatti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 305

Thanks all. Now I need the weather goods to smile on me. If all else fails, there is always Bub's BBQ!!!!!

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

I hear good things about Bub's, personally I really like The Hangar in Amherst, just got some amazing boneless chicken wings last night hahaha

eric parham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 30

Go to the hanger for the girls if nothing else

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

I think I know the exact waitress you're talking about hahaha

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725
topo of the sun bowl

Finally found the old hand drawn topo from the guys who developed this crag...
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Joe, you wouldn't be one of those hoarding types with stacks of newspapers filling your living room, would you? :))

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

I havent been there in a little over a year but that topo makes no sense to me.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

hahah thats funny stuff...

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725

Hey Josh, take the topo, go to the cliff and it should make sense. Worked well for me when I went...

Ha ha, Mark, only hoard important stuff (like topos to obscure W. Mass craglets)....

And Wilk · · Espanola, NM · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Where does that big flat rock at the base fit into this? If you can remember...

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725

I don't remember the base. This is just a topo that the guys who put up the routes gave me with some rough directions. I seem to remember being able to figure out the routes by starting on one side of the cliff and working my way to the right. Now, if someone added in more bolts since this was drawn up, then it might be worthless...

eric parham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 30

I'm with Josh on this one. There is one 11 and maybe 2 10's. That topo makes no sense to me at all.

Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,955

My very old Falcon New England Climbing guide has a topo for Sunbowl - amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-En…

Frankly it really isn't worth more than 1 or 2 visits. Flashed the middle 10b-ish route and the 11 doesn't look to be on the hard 11 side. Almost got my car stuck in the mud en route to the parking area so be careful after rain.

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

That sounds right to me

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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