Beta on Rumney

Hey every one
So next friday or Saturday me and my girl are head out of the ADK over to Rumney for her first lead because it's a popular sport climbing area. I've never been to Rumney my self and would like some beta on a good bolted wall that have a verity of lower grades maybe starting around 5.7 and working up. Any one have any Advice??? Or even if your not doing any thing that day and want to head out with us and show us some of those classic that i hear so much about, we could meet up.?.
Any way thanking you in advance for your sound advice on a good climbing wall.
Forrence

u shld try the route finder feature on the site... it is quite helpful for these kinds of requests.

The route finder tool is great. Having said that there is a fine 5.4 lead at the Meadows that I put newbies on as their first climb. The other option is that there is a 5.2 at the parking lot wall - the climbing is not as nice though. No need to start on 5.7 if you want to double check your lead head. For 5.7 a great but one to test one's lead head is Glory Jeans - it's 5.6 in the old book and also at Parking Lot wall.

Bring a stick clip.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:Bring a stick clip.

you probably won't need a stick clip.

chances are someone will lend you one (or you can find a real stick to make your own) if you really need one...

everybody seems to start out at the meadows, but there are better "easy" crags. the "jimmy cliff" area has a nice bunch of easy routes that are fun, "junco" is stellar.

and if you're still into "printed media" (ie. books) there is a really nice guide book by ward smith.

iBolt

Agree that Jimmy Cliff would be a good place to start, between the left and right sides there is a nice stepwise progression from .5 on up. From there it is an easy walk up to Crow's Nest, a little hard to find but a handful of nice 9s (and up) and Land Ho is a great 8+, on par with Junco in my opinion.

In addition, between those two crags Clip a Dee Do Dah, though only a .3 is about as much fun as you can have at any grade at Rumney.

Most important Beta: Go Friday, not Saturday. It gets crowded over there. It will be ok Saturday, but you'll spend less time waiting in line on Friday.

Rajiv Ayyangar wrote:Most important Beta: Go Friday, not Saturday. It gets crowded over there. It will be ok Saturday, but you'll spend less time waiting in line on Friday.

ding ding ding ding ding... upper vader is sometimes overlooked but nice for short easy leads.

This may come as a surprise... but the 5.8 crag would be a decent choice. Couple of unmemorable but decent 57/5.8's, and some nice 5.10's in the middle.

If you make it over there on Friday, the Meadows is great. On Saturday it will be a mob scene. Jimmy Cliff is great and might also be crowded but not nearly as bad. Junco (5.8ish) should not be missed.

Any time you go to Rumney you will end up encountering a couple a**holes who give Rumney climbers a bad name... don't take them seriously, it's generally a good, albeit large crowd there.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, but I thought "Glory Jeans" was the most popular "first lead" at Rumney. It is 5.6, and a 5 minute approach from the car right on the Parking Lot Wall. Parking Lot Wall has a ton of easy climbs for beginners (I remember Chloe's Breakfast Special at 5.8 being good, lots of 5.7s and 5.8s that are OK as well).

As someone said, try going on a Friday... Parking Lot Wall gets crazy crowded on the weekends (at least from my memory... I haven't climbed there in a couple of years, but I assume the crowd situation is only getting worse...)

The guidebook is excellent, too.

Lots of easy routes. Don't worry so much.

mmainer wrote:This may come as a surprise... but the 5.8 crag would be a decent choice. Couple of unmemorable but decent 57/5.8's, and some nice 5.10's in the middle. If you make it over there on Friday, the Meadows is great. On Saturday it will be a mob scene. Jimmy Cliff is great and might also be crowded but not nearly as bad. Junco (5.8ish) should not be missed. Any time you go to Rumney you will end up encountering a couple a**holes who give Rumney climbers a bad name... don't take them seriously, it's generally a good, albeit large crowd there.

i do not suggest doing The Terrace .8 at 5.8 the potential to deck on the ledge is quite high. i know 2 people who have had broken heels on that route. Snake skin and Bolt and run are good routes though

The Terrace is HARD and scary, IMO. I just don't get that route.