Miura VS Buckle Wear

Does this happen to anyone else's Miuras? This is my second pair of Miura VS shoes that have started tearing like this in about 3 month's use... don't know if it's a faulty design, the way the shoe fits my foot and where the buckle sits, or maybe my footwork just sucks?

Just trying to find out if this is an issue for anyone else besides me, as I love the way these shoes fit, but if the buckle keeps tearing away from the shoe on every pair I get, I'm going to have to find something else...

Mine do not have that problem but I don't climb in them often. Mine are also a few years old.

I have notcied delamination on my TC Pros where the front of the foot flexes and these were bought within the last year. I am not sure if their quality issues are related to a change in the last year or if it is just a coincidence. I'd love to know if they moved their facility or made a significant design change.

On another note:
I can't wait until Addidas / 5.10 shoes are made in the USA. They want military contracts and this will force them to move production of certain models into the US.

happened with my katanas .... i luv the fit of sportivas, but the miuras/katanas dont seem to last that long, which is why i save em for outdoors

I have the Katanas and rip the buckles off if I am doing any foot jamming with them. They are more of a "sport shoe," (face and slab) and foot jamming tears the buckles off.

Edit: I really like my Katanas, just that they are painful for foot jamming and not made for that. Excellent shoe, though.

yes mine did that to. they still worked well despite the strap being half torn. change the angle you strap it down and don't over do it.

solutions strap will break as well. I never crank down any of the straps anymore... just "finger tight".

Yeah these are sport climbing, outdoor-only shoes for me as well. The fit is tight; they're 41's and I wear 44 street shoes so no jamming for me in these either.

Exact same thing happened to mine.

Yup, both left and right buckles eventually wore all the way through.

Both my pairs are like that but I killed my first pair after several resoles and they never wore through. I just tried to be gentle with them and don't wear them for jamming very often.

My TC pros delamed at the usual spot but I just cemented them up with barge cement and they've been good to go ever since.

This particular thing hasn't happened to my Miura VS shoes, but the velcro on the straps isn't the same grade as the velcro on my Katanas- it got un-sticky within a year, while the stuff on my Katanas (which are older) is still good.

My Shamans started to wear on one of the buckles but not on the strap. I caught it early and wrapped some tape around the buckle and the nylon loop that holds it before it got any worse. I think it was from a specific move on a specific boulder problem that I was working on.

Well, you are dragging the inside of the ball of your foot along the wall when you climb, so anything with a buckle there will wear. Maybe something with a strap further back from the ball of your foot would be better for you. Otherwise figure out what you are doing that causes that wear, if it is from crack climbing, well there is not much you can do about that. If you are wrapping your arch around an arete or something and it is specific to something you are working on, or if you just drag your foot up the wall.

Looks like you are climbing cracks though.

you are obviously rubbing that part of your foot on rock a lot, the strap isn't wearing so much as you are grinding it away.

you can't expect the strap or the metel ring that holds it to last forever if you are making that much contact with them and the rock.

try slippers or lace ups.

Had a similar issues with my muiras and was able to at least temporarily fix the problem (still holding strong) with a combination of sewing the buckle to the leather of the shoe and super glue. I believe the problem stems from the fact that the top and bottom buckle attachment is weak (just elastic and not through leather). If you compare the attachment for the middle buckle with the others you will see what I am talking about. Mine started after having the shoes for a few weeks on both shoes on both top and bottom buckles. Wasn't doing any crack climbing with them and am 99% sure it wasn't caused from scraping against the wall. I have short, fat feet so I have attributed the issue on mine to my wide feet. The middle buckle which has a leather attachment has had no issues. Also, the bottom strap on my is starting to rip as shown in the picture and I haven't come up with a fix for that yet.

Happened to mine too, I just wrapped the torn section with a little tape and it seems to be holding up. I used athletic tape, but i would go with something a bit thinner like electric or duck tape if I did it over again.

rogerbenton wrote:you are obviously rubbing that part of your foot on rock a lot, the strap isn't wearing so much as you are grinding it away.

generationfourth wrote: on the miura vs this is not from rubbing... it's from over tightening the strap and the buckle saws thru it. very common.

Peter Franzen wrote: Yep. It has happened to every pair of them that I have owned. Still a great shoe though.

When you buy those shoes new, coat all of that zone in Freesole and you will not have any issues.

You can also replace the metal loops if you have some basic sewing skills.

the solutions is of course to buy it from REI or backcountry should it happen before the first resole, take it back ... as it generally shouldnt happen if yr sport climbing

if you have enough used up spare katanas or miuras like i do, just steal a buckle/strap from one and sew it to the damaged one ...

sportivas perform great, but they simply are not durable at all ... the rubber delaminates, the buckles and straps come off, etc ...

my resoles on sportiva last longer than the original rand, without any delamination ...

Peter Franzen wrote: Yep. It has happened to every pair of them that I have owned. Still a great shoe though.