Learning to crack. Routes in the NE?

Rhododendron goes at 5.6 and is hands to fists. Kens crack is 5.7+ is a lot of fingers... both are in the Gunks. Kens crack is a super fun climb if you can get it on a day when it is dry.

Neither climb really teaches crack technique all that well. I always have at least one appendage doing something other than a pure jam on those climbs, and I'm a much stronger crack than face climber, so I try to find jams.

Plus, the key to learning cracks is mileage on different cracks. Running around the Gunks all weekend trying to find every climb with a jam on it will net you a very small skill gain compared to setting up at the Creature Wall and running laps for an afternoon.

Auto-X Fil wrote:Neither climb really teaches crack technique all that well. I always have at least one appendage doing something other than a pure jam on those climbs, and I'm a much stronger crack than face climber, so I try to find jams. Plus, the key to learning cracks is mileage on different cracks. Running around the Gunks all weekend trying to find every climb with a jam on it will net you a very small skill gain compared to setting up at the Creature Wall and running laps for an afternoon.

Yep. If you follow most of the advice on this thread, you might make one hand or foot jam.

Further, and I apologize if this was already covered, I assume you're not trying to learn to finger jam. Generally, easy and moderate finger jamming comes pretty naturally to face-climbers.

(1) Go to the 'daks, or (2) go climb the rose crack as I mentioned above (easy to TR, it will destroy you), and (3) always do what Auto X suggests.

Auto-X Fil wrote:Neither climb really teaches crack technique all that well. I always have at least one appendage doing something other than a pure jam on those climbs, and I'm a much stronger crack than face climber, so I try to find jams. Plus, the key to learning cracks is mileage on different cracks. Running around the Gunks all weekend trying to find every climb with a jam on it will net you a very small skill gain compared to setting up at the Creature Wall and running laps for an afternoon.

I second creature wall. You can TR anything, and you can just walk up to set the TR. There's virtually no approach, and it is a nice place to chill for the day.

Alicia Sokolowski wrote: I second creature wall. You can TR anything, and you can just walk up to set the TR. There's virtually no approach, and it is a nice place to chill for the day.

The Creature Wall is certainly a nice little crag, with a selection of good moderate routes, but only one (Arachnid Traction, 5.8) really requires jamming, and then only for about 20' or climbing. The others, while they certainly involve a bit of jamming here and there, are basically fun face climbing on blocky holds in and around the cracks.

In New Hampshire, three good options are the North End and Barber Wall at Cathedral, and Echo Crag in Fanconia Notch, though you'd need to be able to lead 5.6-5.7 to drop ropes at Echo, and care is needed setting up TRs at Cathedral as the approaches and edges are exposed.

The South Wall of the Precipice in Acadia might just be the best moderate crag in New England, as it's positively stacked with stellar low to mid grade cracks and corners. You do need to lead to access many of them, however. If you can lead 5.6, it's very possible to lead up a pitch, and with some careful traversing along ledges and attention to the guidebook, lower down numerous 5.7-5.11 cracks.

The Spider's Web in the Adirondacks is the best concentration of stout cracks in the North East in my opinion, but it's not a good place to start, as the best lines begin around 5.10, and are best led to set up for TR.

One of the better 5.8 cracks in the Adirondacks is Mr. Clean at the Barkeaters crag. It begins with a nice section of #2 camalot crack in a corner. There are other excellent moderate pitches at the Barkeaters as well, though none are as pure jamming as Mr. Clean. Again, the Barkeaters are most conveniently TR'd after leading up.

The Rose Crack at Upper West Bolton in Vermont has been mentioned a few times up thread, and it is a superb pitch. That said, overhanging cupped hands and fists is not ideal learning terrain, and besides, The Rose is littered with face holds. I see people climb around a significant portion of the jamming all the time. Schist is generally just too featured to demand sustained jamming. But whatever: Upper West is still a great crag with some excellent 5.7-5.10 gear routes, and a nice selection of good clip-ups from 5.8+ to 5.12, concentrated mostly in the solid 5.11 range. Many are inconvenient at best to TR without leading first.

Cheers,

Derek

The Creature Wall is certainly a nice little crag, with a selection of good moderate routes, but only one (Arachnid Traction, 5.8) really requires jamming, and then only for about 20' of climbing. The others, while they certainly involve a bit of jamming here and there, are basically fun face climbing on blocky holds in and around the cracks.

In New Hampshire, three good options are the North End and Barber Wall at Cathedral, and Echo Crag in Fanconia Notch, though you'd need to be able to lead 5.6-5.7 to drop ropes at Echo, and care is needed setting up TRs at Cathedral as the approaches and edges are exposed.

The South Wall of the Precipice in Acadia might just be the best moderate crag in New England, as it's positively stacked with stellar low to mid grade cracks and corners. You do need to lead to access many of them, however. If you can lead 5.6, it's very possible to lead up a pitch, and with some careful traversing along ledges and attention to the guidebook, lower down numerous 5.7-5.11 cracks.

The Spider's Web in the Adirondacks is the best concentration of stout cracks in the North East in my opinion, but it's not a good place to start, as the best lines begin around 5.10, and are best led to set up for TR. Still, if you can round up a rope gun, the Web is hard to beat.

One of the better 5.8 cracks in the Adirondacks is Mr. Clean at the Barkeaters crag. It begins with a nice section of #2 camalot crack in a corner. There are other excellent moderate pitches at the Barkeaters as well, though none are as pure jamming as Mr. Clean. Again, the Barkeaters are most conveniently TR'd after leading up.

The Rose Crack at Upper West Bolton in Vermont has been mentioned a few times up thread, and it is a superb pitch. That said, overhanging cupped hands and fists is not ideal learning terrain, and besides, The Rose is littered with face holds. I see people climb around a significant portion of the jamming all the time. Schist is generally just too featured to demand sustained jamming. But whatever: Upper West is still a great crag with some excellent 5.7-5.10 gear routes, and a nice selection of good clip-ups from 5.8+ to 5.12, concentrated mostly in the solid 5.11 range. Many are inconvenient at best to TR without leading first.

Oh yes, Pawtuckaway in NH, also mentioned up thread, is a great lesser known (except for bouldering) suggestion. There are some excellent, easily TR'd cracks there. You may find some stiff in the grade, but they are wonderful. Consider waiting until after bug season, or bring plasma.

Cheers, Derek

Auto-X Fil wrote:Neither climb really teaches crack technique all that well. I always have at least one appendage doing something other than a pure jam on those climbs, and I'm a much stronger crack than face climber, so I try to find jams. Plus, the key to learning cracks is mileage on different cracks. Running around the Gunks all weekend trying to find every climb with a jam on it will net you a very small skill gain compared to setting up at the Creature Wall and running laps for an afternoon.

Honestly, that was why I thought they would work well. It would allow him to experiment with placing a jam here and there... while still getting some mileage in and having all the skills the OP has already to fall back on to feel comfortable.

But, I see your point, and don't disagree... I just wanted to give some Gunks recommendations since he mentioned it specifically in his post.