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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coalpit Connection T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- |
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Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fist of The North Star T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Gladiator T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick Your Flint T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Man On the Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nanook of the North T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precious Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer 05' |
| Page Views: | 3,501 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
Start from the same area as Stifflers Mom.
P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+
P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+
P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10
P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8
It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.
the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.
It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.
P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+
P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+
P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10
P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8
It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.
the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.
It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.
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