falling on trad gear...
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I'm also a new trad leader, and I took my first fall on gear about 3 weeks ago. The fall was unintentional on a piece that I thought was ok. The person who really showed me the ropes with trad always stressed placements, so i feel my placements are pretty good. This piece however was as good as I could get for the rock, but still decent. I didn't take a big fall (piece was at my shins), but it really helped show me what pieces will hold and has boosted my confidence as I used to also be super afraid of falling and would down climb a lot. I haven't let this get to my head thinking anything will hold, but I spend a lot less time fidgeting with a piece making it a perfect placement. A friend once told me this: the only thing that is not redundant is the rope; if it breaks you're on the ground; BUT the one thing that makes it redundant is you not falling, so is it better to place a piece that you know will hold but isn't perfect or spend 30 seconds getting pumped placing the perfect piece? |
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Leader must not fall... It is that easy. Sure you will fall at points but the way I climb trad is to not fall. I climb sport as practice so that I can climb harder trad. I don't push myself on trad leads. Just the way I learned. I doubt it is right, but it saves my gear and saves me. |
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JonathanHillis wrote:Leader must not fall... It is that easy. Sure you will fall at points but the way I climb trad is to not fall. I climb sport as practice so that I can climb harder trad. I don't push myself on trad leads. Just the way I learned. I doubt it is right, but it saves my gear and saves me.And also likely keeps you from climbing at your full potential. If you're ok with that then fine, but if you want to climb as hard as you potentially can, eventually you are going to have to risk falling on gear. I'm probably not telling you anything that you didn't already know. |
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leader must not fall, bwahhh hhaaaa haaA. yeah, sounds like a great way to climb 5.5, or maybe 5.6...... |
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Trad climbing is full of no-fall situations; I'd guess that more than half of all trad climbs have sections where the leader better not fall. After those, there are many questionable situations in which falling seems ok but injuries still happen. |
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Great post. That more or less describes my progression. However I know there are a lot of folks on this site who have pushed into onsighting 11+/12 on gear on a semi-regular basis. I would be interested to hear if their experiences were similar. |
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For the record ... |
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Amen to every single word rgold wrote. |
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I've had a friend have her first fall about a month ago, and its taken a lot of re-education in the mental side of things. Fall practice in safe conditions is probably recommended to get use to the experience. As close to the actual experience of a leader fall the better. She claimed fall practice indoors helped her position properly but didn't help with trusting gear.... 3 pieces ripped. |
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I agree with the do not fall group. |
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Personally, it is not about the gear and whether or not it will hold; it is about the possible consequences of falling on the route and if I'm up for dealing with them if shit hits the fan. |
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Relatively new climber + Rock Warrior reader here: |
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Awesome video. |
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s.price wrote:If you are really comfortable and confident in your ability to place gear then falling on it should present no problem. You trust that bolt you fall on when gettin sporty and you probably no nothing of it's history or if it was even placed right. Seems to me you are not as confident in placing gear as you think you are.I have been out climbing a few days since I posted this, and I am much more comfortable being above my last gear placement. I am quite comfortable with leading in regards to sport climbing, and trad is becoming more "normal" as well. Honestly, the post was about conquering the irrational fear of gear failure or the "what if". Just like a person on their first climb ever doesn't want to trust a toprope, not because they don't understand the system or how to use it, but because of the irrational fear. Similar to the feeling of going up a sport climb before having ever taken a fall. In theory a quickdraw is strong enough to survive the forces of a leader fall, but somehow knowing this rationally is very different to trusting the shoe-string thick dogbone when you are pumping out, about to whip into space. Then after you fall... laughing at yourself for the experience, suddenly you are much more confident and comfortable. That was what I was looking to do, or advice on how to get over the irrational fear of the gear. |
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more experience with using/placing gear while actually on lead seems to have helped alot. Thanks for all the advice... I'm not so sure i'll be taking any "practice" falls. But, if the fall is safe, and I have it well protected, I will try not to shy away from it when the inevitable happens. |
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I think what everyone was trying to tell you is that being afraid to fall above trad gear isn't necessarily irrational. |
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Great video. The first new route I tried to do in my first year of climbing I hung on a number 2 Chouinard stopper and decided it would hold. It didn't and the one and a half (they made that size then)3 feet below it broke and I hit the ground. I was only ten feet off the ground and didn't get hurt. That freaked me out for a long time. Todd Skinner got me into taking whippers on backed up bomber pro and that helped. After years of sport climbing I had to go through the process again but I did it on a trad route I really wanted to climb. 20-30 footers on small gear as long as there is a bomber piece between me and the ground. Now I fail from things other than fear of falling. Just remember you can get hurt then minimize the chance of that happening. |
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youll fall ... or youll be stuck climbing 5.7/8s all day and talking about how hardcore you are for not falling ;) |
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In one of the climbing books I read not too long ago, some crusty old hard man said something to the effect of "I've never fallen. If I ever fell, I'd quit climbing." |
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JLP wrote: I'm thinking films like this are the reason for these questions. It's kind of like watching pornos while you are still in elementary school.Bingo. |