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Routes in Castle Lake
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Hair Raiser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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London Bridges T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prodigal Son T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straw, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thor's Unhappy T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wife and 2 Kids T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | James Taylor, Ben Anderson, Matt Deming |
| Page Views: | 691 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Kelvin Lu on Sep 10, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area
Details
See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.
Description
This route has some nice little moves in it with good holds. The Uinta Rock guidebook gives it a 5.7, but given the altitude (10,400 ft) I think it's fair to bump this to at least 5.8. The cruxy section in the middle is a "little" steep but within two moves it's over. We found a Diet Coke can on top of the route from 1986 so I'm guessing it doesn't see much action.
The route gets to a large ledge on top ideal for belaying/anchoring, but you can climb a deep flake to the right of the roof feature another 10 feet to the top.
The route gets to a large ledge on top ideal for belaying/anchoring, but you can climb a deep flake to the right of the roof feature another 10 feet to the top.
Location
The line runs to the right of an obvious roof at the top that you can see from your approach. The route is to the left of Castle Lake if you are facing the wall. You will have to hike across a boulder field/grassy area up to a big ledge above a short cliff and move left. Rap from your own sling or down climb a nearby gully by traversing up and to the left and then down a series of ledges semi-hidden by a bunch of pine trees (easier to see this from below).
Protection
A number of large horizontal cracks will take a variety of cams, nuts, etc. Best not to use the vertical crack for placements as you will waste a lot of energy trying to place it instead of moving through to a better, easier stance. No bolts or anchors. We left a sling with a rap ring around a largish rock just below the top.
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