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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - West
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Batwings T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Batwings Direct S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Behold T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delay of Game S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Norma's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pave Paradise T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road Rage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Solo Mission T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solstice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Suburban Sprawl T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Suprise T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 17,632 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Batwings climbs the crack 15-20 feet right of Norma's book. The initial crack protects well and climbs easy, until you reach the horizontal crack. Place a cam in this crack and angle or traverse right. Aim for the crack just left of the roof. This crack takes hand jams like it was designes for them, and then turns vertical. It still takes the hand jams for a distance then thins out into 2 thin cracks. Take your pick, or use both and pop up onto the face. Find your moves and pick your protection well from this point as it is sparse.
Photos
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