Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jed Williamson, Mark Calkins, Andy Damp - 1970 |
Page Views: | 51,153 total · 240/month |
Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 16, 2006 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Traverse out onto the main corner after passing below the start of Open Book.
Pitch 1: Belay and climb the first easy pitch for 50m or so. There is a nice airy belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Wander up the expansive slab to a ledge under a headwall.
Pitch 3: Strike up the left slanting diehdral at the left edge of the ledge. Stay out on the lower face and utilize great big jugs. Head left for the arete and enjoy the phenominal exposure. Belay on the next big ledge.
Pitch 4: Traverse some goofy stuff across a gap and then head up into the vegetation to a nice ledge where it is obvious people have camped. Belay, and then scramble up the chimney to the top of the wall.
Great route for the grade with great position.
Pitch 1: Belay and climb the first easy pitch for 50m or so. There is a nice airy belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Wander up the expansive slab to a ledge under a headwall.
Pitch 3: Strike up the left slanting diehdral at the left edge of the ledge. Stay out on the lower face and utilize great big jugs. Head left for the arete and enjoy the phenominal exposure. Belay on the next big ledge.
Pitch 4: Traverse some goofy stuff across a gap and then head up into the vegetation to a nice ledge where it is obvious people have camped. Belay, and then scramble up the chimney to the top of the wall.
Great route for the grade with great position.
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