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Where to go around Boulder to get comfortable falling on trad gear

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10
Copperhead wrote:Don't fall on 5.8, you'll get hurt no mater how good your gear is. If you want to know if your placements are good, get a mentor. If you want to practice falling, go to the gym or climb hard sport . No need for the mental masturbation about falling; when you are ready, it'll happen.
You know I took a nice fall on a 5.4 in the Gunks...I was fine...sweeping statements generally are wrong :p (Except my sweeping statement of course)
Rob Baumgartner · · Niwot · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 196

There are plenty of bolted cracks at Shelf Road. I'd suggest placing gear just above one and take a proper lead fall.

Jared Hall · · Corvallis, Oregon · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0
Brian in SLC wrote:I was going to suggest a good therapist...
It's shit like this that makes me wish I could upvote things here.
Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105
Ben Walburn wrote:Hey Joe, .
'where you goin' with that gun in your hand? If'n I had a dollar fer...
No offense taken. Hope the same is true for you. I like this debate shit; I was raised as a Catholic,yet, I like new experiences.
Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350

ok im no expert but may i say my opinion: get on something you can stitch up and freaking just aide it place every 2 ft if you have to and sit on every piece that will make you trust your placements and its relatively safe since you are placing so frequently, i would suggest a short straightforward crack with bomber pro. Choose a granite crag like Boulder Canyon it will hold pro for sure. Preferably have a trad mentor with you to critique your placements then clean it yourself on tr so you will see if some stuff is placed too deep or overcammed that also eliminates the issue of stuck gear (whose fault?) , some areas to consider are Riviera, Cob Rock, boulderado, Happy hour, nip tuck (definitely) Best of luck! climb safe!
the classic 5.9 line at nip tuck is perfect for practice: tr can be also set, when you get comfortable do it on passive gear only, its a lot of fun! sandbagged for the grade but good pro.

Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350
Brian in SLC wrote:I was going to suggest a good therapist...
a massage therapist would be nice ...for afterwards! cos its a lot of work!
MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Trad falling....... Scary stuff, especially if your limit is 5.8-ish. I don't know too many (or any) climbs at that level that would be "safe" or "fun" to practice falling on. Hmmmm think broken ankles as those climbs typically are pretty low angle with loads of ankle breaking ledges.......

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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