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Brassmonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

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Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 6,116
Brassmonkey wrote:Upon Hearing that there is a falcon nest on the lunch ledge for Free Ride, I'm considering running Free Ride up to the top of the shield and then traversing over to Pleasure Victim to run last 2 pitches this weekend. Does anyone have any experience with doing this? Any generic beta (i'm not into super specific beta) I might need, if this is even possible? Route description says the lla pitch is often wet which is a concern of mine and that I should bring some RP's or small brassies. Thanks for the help!
From the top of the Shield, you can traverse (with no pro, but easy) to the base of the upper PV pitches. There's a bolted anchor there. The .11a pitch has some friable rock and, in my opinion, isn't super high quality. The top pitch is spectacular and hard.

Be warned that the raps go down Free Ride, and if there are peregrines on Lunch Ledge, being anywhere near the Shield is ill advised. You risk getting dive-bombed by the falcons, and also risk disturbing the nest. I recommend climbing elsewhere (like Prelude to Gravity on the South Face).
Latro · · new england · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0
Jim Lawyer wrote: and if there are peregrines on Lunch Ledge, being anywhere near the Shield is ill advised. You risk getting dive-bombed by the falcons, and also risk disturbing the nest. .
I second Jim's comment. A good while back I was on Lewis Elijah early in the season; there was no closing posted for any part of the cliff at that moment, yet two guys showed up on Diagonal late in the day, having been forced off the middle by repeated attacks.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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