Mountain Project Logo

Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend Public Event

Jim W. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 25

A short slide show of my pics from the weekend....

youtube.com/watch?v=YW0rgE6…

-Jim

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

Thank you guys so much for the overhaul! Also thanks to the BLM for everything they do.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
JLP wrote: Perhaps the FA, who appears to have posted above in this thread, can let everyone know where else one might find such handiwork - before someone gets killed.
Ya, I was kinda thinking the same thing. I replaced the bolts in question, with lots of help from Mike Smyth, and Adam & Jen (didn't catch their last name...).

I took a pic of the bolt head, which is somewhat distinctive, in order to warn others. If you see a bolt with a dollar sign on the head, down climb back to the ground (I wouldn't recommend lowering).

Realize that only the rusty section of the threads was actually in contact with the sleeve--the rest of the shank was all hanger--so these bolts were literally less than 1/2" in the rock. And this isn't exactly granite. I was shocked when I saw these, and I've seen all kinds of ridiculous mank.
Sheer lunacy: the perfect description for the bolts on Sheer Lunacy.

Dollar sign means: make sure your life insurance policy is up to date.
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Also, a huge thanks to Bob D'Antonio for making this happen. He was the driving force behind this effort, and it surely wouldn't have happened without him. And there wouldn't have been nearly as many people without Mike Howard's efforts in advertising & coordinating the event. And finally, thanks to all the companies that threw in SWAG, we came away with quite a nice haul:

Trango
Fixe
Black Diamond
Omeaga Pacific
ROck & Ice
Wolverine Publishing
Falcon Guides
ArcTeryx
Petzl
American Alpine Club

(I hope I didn't miss anyone)

Thanks a lot guys! Keep up the great work.

S.Stelli · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 150

I managed to snap off a few photos of the trail related work we all did down there.... I wish I had some before pics!




Thanks to everyone who showed up and threw down the hard labor, and special thanks to all the event organizers, and everyone who donated! This was my first event of this kind and surely won't be the last! There were some great people there!
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

Thanks for posting some gravel pics Sean. I didn't manage to get any photos of those projects. We really did get a lot of work done (and had a lot of fun)! Really nice to meet you and everyone else this weekend. Can't wait to get back down there to climb!

Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,650

Wow, thanks for all the kind words. Now, please help me to catalogue what was done and we will keep the list of what should be done. I have to give a shout out to the folks that helped me and really did the heavy lifting. I won't remember everyones names but I fully appreciated the vibe from Center, La Jara, Adams State, San Luis Brewery, 3 Barrel brewery, Nature not nurture, the Alpine Clubbies, hola Burque, the Springs represented as did Boulder and the front range. Big props to Tim Standing and Monomaniac for the donations of energy, gear and experience. The list of swag as above and see below. Here is what I know you contributed to:

Penitente - Entrance Canyon
Dirty Little Girl aka Morning Glory 5.10c. Newly bolted Mussy Hooks, new hangers on good old 3/8” bolts.
Mysterious Redhead 5.11a. New FIXE Chain Anchors, Replaced SMCs, tightened Petzl hangers, checked 3/8” bolts. Look OK. Please do not TR through new rings.
The Nature Of The Beast 5.12a PG13. New Metolius Rap anchors, tightened hangers.
Twist of Fate 5.11d. New Fixe Chain Anchor, New Bolt (3rd) and FIXE hanger, removed angle iron and placed FIXE hangers.
No Regret 5.11c Upgrade, New anchor and hangers, no new bolts added.
Whipping Post 5.11a Upgraded. New Anchor and hangers
French Lesson 5.11d Modernized, New anchor, two bolts added.
Glutton for Punishment 5.12d New Anchor
Rocket Man 5.11c New Anchors, New hangers throughout, Replaced 3 spinning bolts. (need to chop or pull old spinners)
Bucket Slave 5.10b . New FIXE Ring anchors, new hangers throughout.
Persephone 5.11b New anchor, hangers.
The Serpent 5.8 New Mussy hooks Anchors and hangers.
Mr. Wind 5.7 New Mussy Hooks Anchors and FIXE hangers
Mr. Breeze 5.2 New Mussy Hooks Anchor and FIXE hangers.
May-B-Nueve 5.8
Captain America 5.10a New Hangers. Did not address anchor cluster. OK shape.

Penitente - Inner Canyon
Concupiscent Curds 5.10b. Anchor worn, (not upgraded)
How The West Was Won 5.9 . Upgraded anchor and replaced with new FIXE hangers No new bolt but consensus suggests a rebolting.
No Intent 5.12a Upgraded hanger and anchors with chain
Breakdown Dead Ahead 5.10d Now has its own New FIXE Chain Anchors (not shared). Hangers tightened but need replacement. Two new bolts placed one low in corner and one above ledge to share with Huecos start. Crux bolt with cold shut replaced.
Tanks for the Hueco 5.10d New Mussy Hooks and new hangers. (Re/retrobolted as per Breakdown)
Bullet the Blue Sky 5.12c/d New Mussy Hook anchors. Removed chain. New hangers. Removed/replaced last bolt. Need to paint drilled pockets which were filled in.
Not My Cross To Bear 5.11a/b New Mussy Hooks, replaced old hangers and tightened.
A Virgin No More 5.13a (not upgraded)
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 5.11c New Mussy Hooks at a rebolted anchor. Replaced all hangers and drilled new bolt at second-to-last spinner. Split-shank old bolt is spalling rock on pull, need to chop and epoxy.
Los Hermanos de la Penitente 5.12c OK but could use 3 new hangers (start not upgraded)
Morada 5.12a/b New FIXE chain anchors. Can reach from the top of Weenie Way.
Jabba the Hut 5.11c (not upgraded)
Ordinary People 5.9 R Complete upgrade, new bolt at botton, Mussy Hooks. I hear was Full of 1” drop ins (scary).
Children Of A Lesser Grade 5.10c Complete upgrade withnew anchor bolts with Mussy Hooks, new bolts and hangers. Removed all old 1" drop ins.
Heaven Can Wait 5.10 Trad Route. Shares new anchor with Children.
Jewel Of The Mild 5.10c Complete upgrade, Mussy Hooks, a new bolt at botton. This was also one of the climbs with 1” drop-in machine bolts
Brown Sugar 5.11a New hangers, need new anchor.
Sister of Mercy 5.12b
Sheer Lunacy 5.11 PG13 Removed 1” drop-in machine bolts. Complete rebolting, New Anchor.
Shear Strength 5.12a, Removed 2' chain anchor, new anchor, new hangers on all lead bolts.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Mike, my only addition is the changes made to Sheer Strength, which I edited in for ya (see above).

If anyone wants to read the full blow-by-blow with pics, here it is.

Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,650
Monomaniac wrote:Mike, my only addition is the changes made to Sheer Strength, which I edited in for ya (see above). If anyone wants to read the full blow-by-blow with pics, here it is.
2 foot of chain..? Was that the tire chain with the cracked end links? Did that baby boy get home OK? Thanks so much for coming out and spreading the joy down there, what a great group of volunteers. I am probably as proud of the landscaping, native plant and soil restoration as I am of anything we did with the routes. Gives the place a welcome spot for all to enjoy. Cheers to you.
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Mike Howard wrote: Ordinary People 5.9 R Complete upgrade, new bolt at botton, Mussy Hooks. I hear was Full of 1” drop ins (Frickin' scary). Am I correct on this rumor? Children Of A Lesser Grade 5.10c Complete upgrade, new bolt at botton, Mussy Hooks. Heaven Can Wait 5.10 Trad Route Jewel Of The Mild 5.10c Complete upgrade, Mussy Hooks. I heard was also one of the ones with 1” drop ins machine bolts
Mike - a couple of corrections for the list:

Jewel of the Mild had a bolt added at the bottom (not Children of a Lesser Grade)

Anchor for Heaven Can Wait (Trad route) was removed and now shares an anchor with Children of a Lesser Grade - this anchor was moved to climber's left during the upgrade

The 3 routes on this wall all had the short bolts.
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,650
ErikaNW wrote:... Jewel of the Mild had a bolt added at the bottom (not Children of a Lesser Grade) Anchor for Heaven Can Wait (Trad route) was removed and now shares an anchor with Children of a Lesser Grade - this anchor was moved to climber's left during the upgrade The 3 routes on this wall all had the short bolts.
Got it ( I always mix these up), thanks Erika for all your help and great energy. Peace on in the new Bak-tun.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Those shorty bolts reminded me of the old Petzl self drives from the late 80's. The drill part was kinda toothy , then you put a pin in the end and finally the bolt. They were 8mm and 10mm

Jeff Lea · · Fairfield, CT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Great job everyone, wish I could have joined in--I've only been to Penitente once on a brief visit in Sept '09, but it is a gem of a place-- want to get back-- so much rock in this world, so little time-- no fire danger here in NH at the moment (understatement) but the black flies are out and biting! Not the best of both worlds, for those of you who have been here in this season! Off to WY and then CO on June 4. Road Trip!!! Jeff

S.Stelli · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 150
ErikaNW wrote:Thanks for posting some gravel pics Sean. I didn't manage to get any photos of those projects. We really did get a lot of work done (and had a lot of fun)! Really nice to meet you and everyone else this weekend. Can't wait to get back down there to climb!
Hey yeah it was great to meet you too! Everyone really did move all that rock around pretty quick... except for taking it up to the Mary... that was BRUTAL! Those few other guys that helped move the rock one heavy wheel barrow at a time probably feel my pain (back, forearms lol) and I thank them! hahaha I wish I had been on the plant moving crew instead!

Bob D. told me to stop working so hard lugging that rock up there "because we still had a ton of climbing to do" hahaha very cool!
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
JLP wrote: However - those bullshit bolts are just over the top...! Perhaps the FA, who appears to have posted above in this thread, can let everyone know where else one might find such handiwork - before someone gets killed.
I feel a little clarification is in order: The only thing over the top is how clueless you are as to what bolting hardware was being sold at the time. John Strand called it, those are self drilling bolts, similar to these:
mountainproject.com/v/10613…

Better get on the horn with Hank & ask him the same question. For that matter, anyone else that placed 1/4" star drives which were also quite prevalent in Colorado during that time.

All this janky bolt talk aside, thank you to all the volunteers, if the next clean-up isn't on Mothers Day, count me in.
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
JLP wrote: not self drilling

wrong

JLP wrote: not the Mammut bolts you link to in the pic
no shit, that's why I said similar.

I had just met Kevin not too long after he put up these routes. He was kind enough to invite me into his home and show me Penitente, his local area. I had a bosch, he didn't. Naturally I asked what kind of drill etc. he used for his routes. He showed me some of the self - drilling bolts he had been using, I had never seen them before. Obviously we used the bosch and 3/8" wedge anchors from that point on.
NEWSFLASH - bolts from the mid 80's might be suspect.
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
JLP wrote: Dude - he hacked it. Nobody anywhere else used that junk.
Whatever JLP, I'm just going off of vague memory from 25 years ago. I've clipped plenty of bolts much worse than than those. Lots of "junk" was placed back then.
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,650

Thanks for the passion guys, much better than silence in so many ways.

We all agree 30 years IS A LONG TIME and the efforts by the pioneers are still respected and celebrated. But things have changed, and in order to modernize and upgrade a gem of nature like this canyon for current and future bliss, we need positive action and less negativity. 30-40 years ago we were driving in seat-beltless Corvairs, without baby seats, breathing our parent's second-handsmoke, sipping from styrofoam McDs cups we tossed out the window, or eating out of plastic containers melted by the microwave oven we just got...the list goes on and back ad infinatum. Let's let it go.

I know we are all in agreement that the new equipment is better than the old, so lets do our part. If anyone wants to contribute, either with time or donations, you can contact me and I will direct you to Bob or Tim Standing or the other locals who are continuing the effort. I know that Bob, in addition to buying the original equipment (no drop-ins BTW), he just shelled out a few hundred for the food and some of the hardware, gas, and planning time out of his full-time schedule in Taos. Tim could use a hand (literally) in his continued effort as seen below, not to mention the invoces he has piled up from ordering Mussy Hooks (all of these are out of his pocket by the way). So look at the list above and consider the one below and shut your pieholes unless it involves belay commands as you help us sweat the crowbarring out of this old mank and granting a safer climb to the kids that are gonna onsite/send shit we only dreamed of working on toprope. Blessings.

From Tim Standing:
"I ordered up additonal mussy hooks and c-links from Safeland Inc. I will probably be a week or so before the following can be finished. It will go faster if I can engage Gary into the tasks.
On your needs list I should be able to modernize most of the routes.
I presently plan the following,

Rocket Man I pulled and filled two old (2 inch) consider replacing all bolts and hangers on route.

Loony Toons needs mussy hooks do to heavy traffic, I will check for cold shuts and bolt modernization

The Serpent needs mussy hooks do to heavy traffic.

May-B-Nueve has new mussy hook anchors.

Captain America I will replace the anchors with mussy hooks do to heavy traffic. Present anchors to far right and with old rusty welded cold shuts.

Drill seeker needs new anchors, I will replace with mussy hooks do to heavy traffic.

Concupiscent Curds needs new anchors, I will replace with mussy hooks do to heavy traffic.

How the West was Won I replaced the anchor bolts and placed mussy hooks do to heavy traffic. I would modernize the route by adding a bottom bolt and moving present first bolt left. First bolt at least 3 feet off obvious route line.

Breakdown Dead Ahead I should be able to replace hangers and check for bolt condition.

Bullet in the Blue Sky- Question, an angry climber complained that the bottom pocket was part of the original route. He appeared suspicious and concerned as I was filling old bolt holes. I can cosmetically refill and touch up the area. It would probably be good to have Bob post something clarifying the issue.

Ordinary People- Bob replaced the Anchors with Mussy hooks replace old bolts and added a bolt.

Candy Apple Grey needs new bolts, hangers and anchors do to heavy traffic. Present anchors horrible chain concoction. In fact the whole wall needs anchors, new hangers, new bolts.... probably the ugliest and most dangerous area left in canyon.

Pumping Huecos I can replace missing hanger

Drop me any additonal needs or recommendations. Thanks again for the good climbing atmosphere and postive energy. A safe and cooperative climbing community is our best chance to protect access and be invited back.

Take Care, Tim"

Shane Neal · · Colorado Springs, CO. · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 265
Glenn Schuler wrote: wrong no shit, that's why I said similar!! NEWSFLASH - bolts from the mid 80's might be suspect.
+1. Lol

Get a clue n quit running your mouth JLP. Props for the work, but lame on disrespecting the people who put up routes that I'm sure you climbed and bolts I'm sure you have clipped.

Were you bolting and putting up test pieces in the 80's JLP? Nuff said.
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Mike Howard wrote: we need positive action and less negativity.
+1
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Rep…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.