Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend Public Event
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A short slide show of my pics from the weekend.... |
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Thank you guys so much for the overhaul! Also thanks to the BLM for everything they do. |
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JLP wrote: Perhaps the FA, who appears to have posted above in this thread, can let everyone know where else one might find such handiwork - before someone gets killed.Ya, I was kinda thinking the same thing. I replaced the bolts in question, with lots of help from Mike Smyth, and Adam & Jen (didn't catch their last name...). I took a pic of the bolt head, which is somewhat distinctive, in order to warn others. If you see a bolt with a dollar sign on the head, down climb back to the ground (I wouldn't recommend lowering). Realize that only the rusty section of the threads was actually in contact with the sleeve--the rest of the shank was all hanger--so these bolts were literally less than 1/2" in the rock. And this isn't exactly granite. I was shocked when I saw these, and I've seen all kinds of ridiculous mank. Sheer lunacy: the perfect description for the bolts on Sheer Lunacy. Dollar sign means: make sure your life insurance policy is up to date. |
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Also, a huge thanks to Bob D'Antonio for making this happen. He was the driving force behind this effort, and it surely wouldn't have happened without him. And there wouldn't have been nearly as many people without Mike Howard's efforts in advertising & coordinating the event. And finally, thanks to all the companies that threw in SWAG, we came away with quite a nice haul: |
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I managed to snap off a few photos of the trail related work we all did down there.... I wish I had some before pics! Thanks to everyone who showed up and threw down the hard labor, and special thanks to all the event organizers, and everyone who donated! This was my first event of this kind and surely won't be the last! There were some great people there! |
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Thanks for posting some gravel pics Sean. I didn't manage to get any photos of those projects. We really did get a lot of work done (and had a lot of fun)! Really nice to meet you and everyone else this weekend. Can't wait to get back down there to climb! |
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Wow, thanks for all the kind words. Now, please help me to catalogue what was done and we will keep the list of what should be done. I have to give a shout out to the folks that helped me and really did the heavy lifting. I won't remember everyones names but I fully appreciated the vibe from Center, La Jara, Adams State, San Luis Brewery, 3 Barrel brewery, Nature not nurture, the Alpine Clubbies, hola Burque, the Springs represented as did Boulder and the front range. Big props to Tim Standing and Monomaniac for the donations of energy, gear and experience. The list of swag as above and see below. Here is what I know you contributed to: |
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Mike, my only addition is the changes made to Sheer Strength, which I edited in for ya (see above). |
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Monomaniac wrote:Mike, my only addition is the changes made to Sheer Strength, which I edited in for ya (see above). If anyone wants to read the full blow-by-blow with pics, here it is.2 foot of chain..? Was that the tire chain with the cracked end links? Did that baby boy get home OK? Thanks so much for coming out and spreading the joy down there, what a great group of volunteers. I am probably as proud of the landscaping, native plant and soil restoration as I am of anything we did with the routes. Gives the place a welcome spot for all to enjoy. Cheers to you. |
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Mike Howard wrote: Ordinary People 5.9 R Complete upgrade, new bolt at botton, Mussy Hooks. I hear was Full of 1 drop ins (Frickin' scary). Am I correct on this rumor? Children Of A Lesser Grade 5.10c Complete upgrade, new bolt at botton, Mussy Hooks. Heaven Can Wait 5.10 Trad Route Jewel Of The Mild 5.10c Complete upgrade, Mussy Hooks. I heard was also one of the ones with 1 drop ins machine boltsMike - a couple of corrections for the list: Jewel of the Mild had a bolt added at the bottom (not Children of a Lesser Grade) Anchor for Heaven Can Wait (Trad route) was removed and now shares an anchor with Children of a Lesser Grade - this anchor was moved to climber's left during the upgrade The 3 routes on this wall all had the short bolts. |
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ErikaNW wrote:... Jewel of the Mild had a bolt added at the bottom (not Children of a Lesser Grade) Anchor for Heaven Can Wait (Trad route) was removed and now shares an anchor with Children of a Lesser Grade - this anchor was moved to climber's left during the upgrade The 3 routes on this wall all had the short bolts.Got it ( I always mix these up), thanks Erika for all your help and great energy. Peace on in the new Bak-tun. |
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Those shorty bolts reminded me of the old Petzl self drives from the late 80's. The drill part was kinda toothy , then you put a pin in the end and finally the bolt. They were 8mm and 10mm |
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Great job everyone, wish I could have joined in--I've only been to Penitente once on a brief visit in Sept '09, but it is a gem of a place-- want to get back-- so much rock in this world, so little time-- no fire danger here in NH at the moment (understatement) but the black flies are out and biting! Not the best of both worlds, for those of you who have been here in this season! Off to WY and then CO on June 4. Road Trip!!! Jeff |
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ErikaNW wrote:Thanks for posting some gravel pics Sean. I didn't manage to get any photos of those projects. We really did get a lot of work done (and had a lot of fun)! Really nice to meet you and everyone else this weekend. Can't wait to get back down there to climb!Hey yeah it was great to meet you too! Everyone really did move all that rock around pretty quick... except for taking it up to the Mary... that was BRUTAL! Those few other guys that helped move the rock one heavy wheel barrow at a time probably feel my pain (back, forearms lol) and I thank them! hahaha I wish I had been on the plant moving crew instead! Bob D. told me to stop working so hard lugging that rock up there "because we still had a ton of climbing to do" hahaha very cool! |
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JLP wrote: However - those bullshit bolts are just over the top...! Perhaps the FA, who appears to have posted above in this thread, can let everyone know where else one might find such handiwork - before someone gets killed.I feel a little clarification is in order: The only thing over the top is how clueless you are as to what bolting hardware was being sold at the time. John Strand called it, those are self drilling bolts, similar to these: mountainproject.com/v/10613… Better get on the horn with Hank & ask him the same question. For that matter, anyone else that placed 1/4" star drives which were also quite prevalent in Colorado during that time. All this janky bolt talk aside, thank you to all the volunteers, if the next clean-up isn't on Mothers Day, count me in. |
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JLP wrote: not self drilling wrong JLP wrote: not the Mammut bolts you link to in the picno shit, that's why I said similar. I had just met Kevin not too long after he put up these routes. He was kind enough to invite me into his home and show me Penitente, his local area. I had a bosch, he didn't. Naturally I asked what kind of drill etc. he used for his routes. He showed me some of the self - drilling bolts he had been using, I had never seen them before. Obviously we used the bosch and 3/8" wedge anchors from that point on. NEWSFLASH - bolts from the mid 80's might be suspect. |
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JLP wrote: Dude - he hacked it. Nobody anywhere else used that junk.Whatever JLP, I'm just going off of vague memory from 25 years ago. I've clipped plenty of bolts much worse than than those. Lots of "junk" was placed back then. |
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Thanks for the passion guys, much better than silence in so many ways. |
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Glenn Schuler wrote: wrong no shit, that's why I said similar!! NEWSFLASH - bolts from the mid 80's might be suspect.+1. Lol Get a clue n quit running your mouth JLP. Props for the work, but lame on disrespecting the people who put up routes that I'm sure you climbed and bolts I'm sure you have clipped. Were you bolting and putting up test pieces in the 80's JLP? Nuff said. |
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Mike Howard wrote: we need positive action and less negativity.+1 |