Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Robert Warren, Jeff Cristol, Steve Johnson. F.F.A. Robert Warren, Jim Nigro
Page Views: 5,926 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jason Brown on Jun 8, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1 - this is nice ballsy run-out face climbing to the right onto the arete for a .11+ crux. Sweet! Belay on a face under an obvious splitter crack, 130'.

P2 - climb splitter for about 120', belay on ledge with boulder on it, .11+.

P3 - climb .10 hands for 120' to a crack switch, belay on arete.

P4 - this is the crux! Climb up and through vertical to slightly overhanging 30' peg crack, .12a crux is at the bolt. Then turn into the right crack system of Kachina Wings, 150'.

P5 - climb up big, right-facing corner system for about 170'. The .10 crux is a o.w. layback about 10' over the gear if any...not that tough. Belay under roof or climb the final 40' of easy 5.7-.8 to the terrace. Traverse terrace to the overlook. Drink beers!

This is the best crack route I have tried thus far, but it is shorter than "Stoned Oven"!!! This is sustained at the grade!

Location Suggest change

Use the same approach of easy climbing or free solo to ledge of Journey Home. Look for fixed nut on wall to the right of Journey and bolts. You must surmount a 5' boulder at the start.

Protection Suggest change

Triple or quadruple fingers, double hands, one #4 cam, nuts, 8-10 runners and 4 draws. 70m rope.

Photos

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