All Locations > Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Glenwood Canyon

Surgery Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Surgery Buttress

Jitterbug Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Main Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Sex Cave 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

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Elevation:	6,957 ft
GPS:	39.62375, -107.13401 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,894 total · 101/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
Admins:	Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

L->R:

Per Michael Schneiter: Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:

A. Smooth Operator, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Surgery Buttress, 5.10b, 1p, 80', bolts.
D1. Pre Op, 5.10d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. Connective Tissue, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Knife, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Post Op, 5.11d, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Rehab, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Smells Like Victory, 5.11c, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Pussy Pie, 5.11a, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a, 1p, 40', bolts.
L. Angel Baby, 5.11b, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Slippin' Sloan, 5.9, 1p, 80', bolts.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Surgery Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 25 ● Slippin' Sloan Sport Main Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 20 ● Smirkin' Smith Sport Main Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Surgery Buttress Sport Main Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 21 ● Pre Op Sport Main Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Connective Tissue Sport Main Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Smooth Operator Sport Sex Cave
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 11 ● Pussy Pie Sport Main Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 6 ● Angel Baby Sport Main Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 4 ● Smells Like Victory Sport Main Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 6 ● Post Op Sport Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● The Knife Sport Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 7 ● Special Gift For Girls Sport Sex Cave