31 5.12 redpoints before i turn 31

This is a very inspirational thread. Well done everyone who is getting them knocked off. I have a birthday coming up next week. One of my goals for the next year includes climbing the nose in under 24 hours. Who wants to help?
Great work everyone!

Second Coming at chuckawalla wall in saint george is super fun and a some what soft 12a, or stick to your guns at the green valley gap, super fun roof, guide book said 12c but it felt like 12a... good luck

Ryan Williams wrote:I don't recall the names of all of the routes that are on the list so far but I'm nearly halfway there with about two thirds of the onsights being sport climbs (otherwise known as flashes).

Really?
So I can't "on-sight" a sport climb, or "flash" a trad route?

Correction: i posted that i had 2 redpoints done of my 31...found out today that a route i did two weeks ago was not the route i thought i was doing. It was an 'unknown' route that wasn't in the AF guide, but the guide read like that 'unknown' was Wilderness .12a/b...not the case. It was only an 11c. So w/ that mistake, i am still only 1/31. Worked the 'real' route all day today, couldn't get it on RP. A bummer day for sure, to find something like that out... oh well... live & learn, stay positive & keep climbing. It's great to hear everyone is making great progess. Keep it up.

just stumbled upon this thread. 29 5.13's is gonna be a difficult year!

Im at 9 so far...

Mechanical Bull 13a@ Endless Wall
The Sweetest Taboo 13b @ Endless Wall
Phone Home 13a @ The Meadow
Angry Birds 13c @ Drive By
Doug Y Doug 13a @ Lizard Wall
Farmacopeia 13b @ Alabama
Mongo's Fury 13a @ Deep Creek
La Madre 13a @ Real
The Word Made Flesh 13b @ Concave

I like the goal of adding to this list!

This article may help people who are trying to set climbing goals.

I am familiar with that unkown route. Dave Bradd bolted it back in 2001 and without a new guide it is easy to confuse routes at these walls . Grade is 11b or c.
It sucks to realize it is not what you think . Keep plugging away at the goal .

10/29
Showboat 13b Concave

I'll play too. My goal is to redpoint 10 5.10 trad routes and 11 5.11 sport routes by the end of 2012. So far I'm 2/10 on trad and 1/11 on sport. Thanks for the inspiration!

LeeAB wrote: Really? So I can't "on-sight" a sport climb, or "flash" a trad route?

Not that it matters, but sure you can flash a trad route. I sort of use the terms interchangeably when sport climbing though. Line of bolts tell you where to go and sometimes a lot of chalk as well.

Only you know if the bolts and chalk help, but on my hardest "onsights" I notice that bolts and chalk help me make decisions faster. For me that's not on sighting. If, however, I'm on some rarely traveled route with no chalk then it can feel very much light onsighting.

Ryan Williams wrote: Not that it matters, but sure you can flash a trad route. I sort of use the terms interchangeably when sport climbing though. Line of bolts tell you where to go and sometimes a lot of chalk as well. Only you know if the bolts and chalk help, but on my hardest "onsights" I notice that bolts and chalk help me make decisions faster. For me that's not on sighting. If, however, I'm on some rarely traveled route with no chalk then it can feel very much light onsighting.

This makes no sense. Of course those things help you on a sport climb. How would you prefer to differentiate between watching someone do the route first and then flashing it, or not having any prior knowledge of the route and on-sighting it. That's what these terms were made for- not for only utilizing them on a trad route- which can also have shit tons of chalk on it. So do you measure the amount of chalk before claiming an on-sight or a flash?

Jeff Chrisler wrote: This makes no sense. Of course those things help you on a sport climb. How would you prefer to differentiate between watching someone do the route first and then flashing it, or not having any prior knowledge of the route and on-sighting it. That's what these terms were made for- not for only utilizing them on a trad route- which can also have shit tons of chalk on it. So do you measure the amount of chalk before claiming an on-sight or a flash?

The terms were created to describe what the top climbers of their day were doing, and how they were doing it. In reality, none of us climb hard enough for it to matter (OK, maybe LeeAB does).

It's really just a joke that we have in NC: You can't on-sight many popular climbs anymore. You've either seen someone do it, seen a picture or a video of it, read about it in the guidebook, or can see all the chalk and ticks.

I realize I am making a huge generalization and negating an on-sight for any of those reasons is a bit of a reach - but in the end it IS just a joke.

This has been a great thread so far, let's keep in that way and take the semantics discussion somewhere else.

"This has been a great thread so far, let's keep in that way and take the semantics discussion somewhere else."

+1

11/29
Freak Magnet 13a Deep Creek

12/29
El Hondo 13a Deep Creek

Just got 10/31 yesterday which puts me about a third of the way there! All the routes I've done so far have been 12a (hardest 12a/b). I've been able to get the last couple of 12a's in 2 or 3 tries; time to start working 12b's and 12c's!

A pretty good Sunday was had:
6/20 'Amplification' 5.13a at The Hot Zone, Middle Fork of Maple Canyon. Awesome! 30 meters of slightly overhanging endurance. Onsight.
7/20 Shoot 'Em Up 5.13a 16 Powerful Moves!
8/20 'Stalker' 5.13a Also in Box Canyon. Cool feature with vertical crux.

"This thread is a very clever way for multiple people to spray.

If I could "like" the concept, in an abstract but meaningless way, I would."

Come on now, his name is Holden Caulfield...he has to be a phony...but deep down he is just an innocent, scared little boy...but yes, move on...

9/20 Underdog 5.13a today.
Fun slab to desperate crimping crux. Good rock.

I've been watching this thread for a while and it has been very inspiring. My goal is 12 5.12s in the year 2012. I've been pretty hard at work for number 1 here at Smith, I have never felt as much of a mental/physical barrier in my climbing as the 5.12 grade, it's left me bloody sore and gasping for air with some decent whips of course. I'll keep y'all filled in.

10/20 Bullocks! 5.13b The Compound, Maple Canyon
Brutal high crux dependent on a dicey heel-toe cam, really fun!