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> 8 - Summit Crags
> Rappel Rock
Standard Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 81
votes
Routes in Rappel Rock
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Baradur T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bender-Axen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Magic Woman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Quacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Charadras T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Chiboni T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corner, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Main Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not So Easy Arch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Other Way, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Quick Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rotissima Bueno T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Storm Crow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Voodoo Child (direct start) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 11,165 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 20, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
On the lower South face of Rap Rock, the right hand edge forms a big slabby apron. The left side of this apron forms a huge dihedral with the main wall, which is Black Quacker. Just right of Black Quacker lie the following routes, from left-to right:P1 of The Standard Route (5.5 or 5.7, OK gear), Chiboni (5.9, pin + 3 bolts), Death Or Glory (5.10X, slab) Bender Axen (5.8 cracks) and Take To your Heals (5.9X, slab).
The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)
P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.
P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.
The standard Route is climbed as follows:P1: (5.6 *) Climb up and right across a few slab moves to reach a groove/crack. Place a piece and go up the crack for perhaps 60' to a nice ledge at the base of a big pine tree, and belay here. You can climb the rest of the route or escape now, by climbing to the right between two grooves (5.2?) to reach the escape slabs, and them climb up chickenheads and horns to the summit (5.2?)
P2: (5.7, *) Climb up and right from the ledge on a set of intermittent seams, for maybe 50 feet. Step left to a right facing corner, then climb up to a ledge. From this pevious corner, you can escape right onto the East Slabs and finish to the sumit from there, if you desire to do so, or else you can continue this pitch on past siad ledge and up to another left facing corner. Climb this for another 30 feet or so to a downward pointing flake. Maneuver to the righthand side of this and up to a belay on the ledge up and left of the top of the flake.
P3-5: Finish as for Black Quacker or choose a place to escape to the right and onto the East Slabs to the summit.
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