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Mount Washington Winter Trip

Original Post
Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

So I am posting about a Mt.Washington winter trip for this upcoming winter and had a few questions. During decemeber-Febuary, whenever the weather provides a window. First off we plan to camp near the Tucks camping area and climb the lions head route and if that goes well the next day up Huntington Ravine. Whats the Lions head and Huntingon Ravine routes like during the middle of winter? Difficulty on both routes and how hard are they? And will we need anything special for the harder Huntington Route, besides all the normal gear.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

What sort of experience do you have? It's all relative.

Lion's Head is a hike. You just need microspikes or crampons and trekking poles. There is no avalanche danger if you stick to the trail, and no technical climbing or fall danger of any sort.

There are a whole bunch of Huntington routes - some are moderate (WI3) ice climbs, and some are easier snow climbs. All can potentially have serious avalanche danger. If you mean Central, you'll probably want the following:

1) A Low avalanche forecast for that route
2) A rope, screws, rock gear, and maybe a picket.
3) An axe and a technical ice tool
4) Boots and crampons good for front-pointing steep ice.

The biggest issue on both areas is the weather. It can go from 20 degrees and bluebird, to sleeting, to -20 with 100mph winds in 30 minutes. You need to be ready to navigate in a whiteout, and have enough clothes and know-how to be out in that for a while. Also, the willingness to turn around. At 60mph gusts, you'll get knocked around. If you keep pressing to the summit and they kick up to 100, you'll get knocked over.

In nice February weather, you could run to the summit from the parking lot in sneakers and microspikes with a fleece jacket and be back in a few hours. But, even with a clear forecast, you have to be ready for anything.

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

A fair amount of experiance not to much though. If lions head is a hike then I would rather go up one of the huntington routes. I'd rather go up a more technical route. What routes do you suggest? And I would rather go in not the best weather but weather wheres there still a ton of snow and all that.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

what type of experience are you speaking of?

Simon Thompson · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 890

Climbing most of the routes in Huntington Ravine require ice and or mixed ice/rock lead climbing skills. Though the climbing here is "moderate" and "easy", it is also very easy to get into trouble with objective hazards(mainly avalanches and bad weather.) General mountain skills and knowledge are necessary to stay safe. Go with someone who has been up there before and knows what they're doing or hire a guide.

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

7 Years of climbing expierance (3 top rope, 4 lead and trad). And fair amount of winter hiking, ive also read my bible(Freedom of the hills) Back to back several times. And my freind has a vast amount of ice climbing experiance.

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

Check the avalanche and weather forecast, pick a nice weekend, and have a good time. As long as you have a good head on your shoulders, mt washington isn't as bad as people make it to be.

Neo Lincoln · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 130

Thats what Ive been told, my dads always freaking out me going to Mt.Washington, Im 17

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

If you want to do some climbing, Lion's Head would probably be a let-down.

Huntington is great fun, and all the routes are good and about the same difficulty. I'd just get familiar with all of them ( chauvinguides.com/hunticegu…), and then do whatever has low avy danger. It's very common for half the Ravine to be Low to Moderate, while the other half is Considerable to High, due to winds cross-loading the Ravine. Also, it's a popular place and you might find yourself in a line on some routes.

I suggest staying in the Harvard Cabin instead of camping out - that place is a lot of fun, and lets you haul more gear up instead of a tent.

Kristen Rowe · · Salt Lake CIty, UT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 65

You can find all sorts of great information on Huntington Ravine routes at Summit Post under the routes section. The Mount Washington Avalanche Center also has great information. There's plenty of info out there.
Personally i recommend camping near Harvard Cabin if you are going to be climbing routes in Huntington Ravine, it's convenient to Huntington's and the Lion's head winter route and has a great atmosphere. You can either stay in the cabin for $15/night or camp outside for $10.
As Auto-X Fil said, the weather changes up there fast. One of our days there this February on Odell's really did go from bluebird sky to near white-out on the alpine garden. Ensure that you have studied the routes and the descents well before going and have maps and a compass in case you do get into a white-out.
It's definitely possible to summit via any of the gulleys if you are making good time so I recommend that over Lion's Head.
Pinnacle, Odell's, North and Yale are all classic routes, choose based on avalanche condition reports and what other people are doing that day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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