Mountain Project Logo

NE Ridge Bear Creek Spire

Original Post
Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

My climbing partner and I are planning to do the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire in a couple of weeks (second week of May). Was wondering if anyone has been up there recently, or might have done it around that time in year's past? We're expecting snow on the approach but will likely bail if there is any snow or ice on the 4th class terrain.

FWIW, this will be our first attempt at a real alpine climb (if you can call it that). Looking for some fun and adventure, but don't want to get *too* far in over our heads. Any comments would be appreciated...

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Post your question on summitpost. There are more CA/Sierra climbers on there than MP. Have fun!

Ryan Huetter · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 395

Go for it! Routes with similar altitude and aspect have been holding some snow in blockier 4th class terrain (E. Ridge Humphrey's), but I can't comment on Bear Creek exactly. Nothing that should be a major deterrent to the climbing, and the "crux" low 5th class moves when the NE Ridge meets the N. Arete- the best way to go- will be free of snow.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

That's a fun route. A Norman Clyde "4th class" though, so definitely expect 5th class climbing (i.e. bring a rope). You'll probably want it to rap off anyways. I don't know the current conditions but I'm guessing any snow you might encounter you could probably bypass pretty easily. Keep in mind that the initial descent off of Cox Col is pretty steep too. Though the snow should soften up later in the day, you might want to bring some crampons just in case.

Ryan Huetter · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 395

Current conditions: Enough snow and ice along the lower section of ridge to need ice axe to clean; several pitches made where it is normal to solo amongst blocky terrain. Crampons not necessary. Upper 5th class section clean.
Decent is post-hole hell, hopefully things will consolidate and firm up when you go up there.

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

Thanks! Sounds great, I think we can handle that.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

If you haul yourself out there and conditions don't look as good as you'd like, the N. Ridge of Pyramid Peak is really fun. It starts right there at Dade Col and has terrific views of the Little Lakes area from its summit. The Little Lakes Peak/Mt. Morgan traverse is also a blast, or you could climb the N. Face of Mt. Abbot, the Hourglass on Mt. Dade, etc., etc.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
Post a Reply to "NE Ridge Bear Creek Spire"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.