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Routes in Right Wall
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95 Degrees in the Shade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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95 Degrees In The Sun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bait and Switch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Boots On The Ground S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crazy Brown Pony S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dedo Grande S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fly Away Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hands Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoe Down T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucky Stars S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mind Bender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Miss Brown T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission George S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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More Funky than Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mudslide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Toucho Randino S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pony Express S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Power Pod S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Right Bulge, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ring Finger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schadenfreude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Soul Terrain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Soy Chango S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tikki Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Stream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Arete (2nd Pitch Variation) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Bulge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Worrall |
| Page Views: | 1,848 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | SCherry on Jan 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Excellent face climbing up a beautiful chunk of bullet hard brown rock, at the far left end of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green streaked wall of "Tiki Man" (12b). This route marks the start of the steep recess that comprises the Right Wall
Pitch 1 begins at a bolted belay that is also shared as the start of the route "Tiki Man" which ascends the beautiful green streaked face. Reach up from the small ledge at the bolted belay and grab a large flake (caution: this may need some glue/reinforcement as it was flexing and cracked, so pull down, not out). Clip the first bolt and negotiate the steep crux (hint: heel hook). Reach up to a jug on the top left end of a ledge system and clip the second bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and get a shake at the base of some stacked corners to your left. Continue up on some amazingly cool holds and deceptively easy ground to a small overlap. Negotiate the second face climbing crux and climb up until you can exit into a big right facing corner.
From here you have 2 main options. To do the upper pitches continue up the corner to your left about 20 feet to an anchor below the routes "White Bulge" and "Right Bulge". Note that the upper pitches of "Miss Brown" require gear and ring in at 10d and 10a respectively. To do the route as a single pitch, clip a bolt out to the right of the corner and traverse up and right for 15-20 feet to a rappel anchor on the route "Mind Bender".
Pitch 1 begins at a bolted belay that is also shared as the start of the route "Tiki Man" which ascends the beautiful green streaked face. Reach up from the small ledge at the bolted belay and grab a large flake (caution: this may need some glue/reinforcement as it was flexing and cracked, so pull down, not out). Clip the first bolt and negotiate the steep crux (hint: heel hook). Reach up to a jug on the top left end of a ledge system and clip the second bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and get a shake at the base of some stacked corners to your left. Continue up on some amazingly cool holds and deceptively easy ground to a small overlap. Negotiate the second face climbing crux and climb up until you can exit into a big right facing corner.
From here you have 2 main options. To do the upper pitches continue up the corner to your left about 20 feet to an anchor below the routes "White Bulge" and "Right Bulge". Note that the upper pitches of "Miss Brown" require gear and ring in at 10d and 10a respectively. To do the route as a single pitch, clip a bolt out to the right of the corner and traverse up and right for 15-20 feet to a rappel anchor on the route "Mind Bender".
Location
At the far left end of the steep recess of the "Right Wall". Just right of the obvious green face of "Tiki Man." Traverse the grassy ledge systems all the way to the left and the 1st set of anchor bolts (if counting from the right) just above a small ledge system. A short bit of 4th class must be negotiated to reach the anchor bolts at the base. You can also approach from the left side of the wall by traversing up and right from Lunch Rock (on second attempt this may be easier as it avoids more of the chossy ledge scrambling).
If doing just the first pitch you can lower with a 60 meter rope.
If doing just the first pitch you can lower with a 60 meter rope.
Photos
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