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Routes in West Face - Right Side
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Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Desperado TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dos Equis Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slab, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turbo Flange T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Carl Jensen, Jim Smith and Don McDonald, Aug 1938 |
| Page Views: | 16,906 total · 77/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Crowell on Feb 24, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This route is to the left of Open Book and to the right of the oval depression formed by Coffin Nail and On the Road. Start to the right of Fingertip Traverse, at a big ledge with a big pine tree, just above the trail.
P1. From the pine tree, climb class 4 terrain up and right to a belay where the steep terrain starts, near a small oak tree.
P2. Climb a face, heading for the alcove above. Belay in the alcove.
P3. Escape the alcove (strenuous for the grade) and head up a gutter. Belay in a slabby area to the left of the Traitorhorn overhangs.
P4. Go around a corner to the left, then follow a diagonal off-width crack. A 4-inch cam is handy for pro once you grovel the first few feet up the crack. Belay under a mountain mahogany, at a ledge inside a recess.
P5. Head up and right out of the recess. Optional belay at a small wall. Climb the slab (easy but run out) to a fist crack, and then continue to the top. (As a variation, it's also possible to leave the recess by going up and left to a 5.6 dihedral that faces the Lunch Ledge slabs.)
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