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does anyone know which route this is on petenwell bluff?

Original Post
stihlhead82 · · Belvidere, Il · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 85

Found this sport route in neceedah but i dont know which route it is. maybe a 5.9+, with a roof for a crux about halfway up, does anyone know which route this is? thanks

Petenwell

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 176

Riverboat Gambler. I think it's a little harder than 5.9+

stihlhead82 · · Belvidere, Il · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 85
alpinejason wrote:Riverboat Gambler. I think it's a little harder than 5.9+
Thanks, yeah it seemed harder than a 5.9
fat cow · · St. Paul, MN · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

ya thats the name, says its a 10b on here. i remember watching this guy dimitri climb it, the rock in the roof section that he placed a couple cams in looked flaky, thin, sketchy, and soft. he thought if he fell they would blow out the rock for sure and the fall would be rough. awesome looking route though, how did u get the TR on there did someone lead it?

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195
fat cow wrote:ya thats the name, says its a 10b on here. i remember watching this guy dimitri climb it, the rock in the roof section that he placed a couple cams in looked flaky, thin, sketchy, and soft. he thought if he fell they would blow out the rock for sure and the fall would be rough. awesome looking route though, how did u get the TR on there did someone lead it?
Watching Dmitiry climb is always an exciting adventure! If you ever get the chance to belay him on Flake Route or any other hard/sketchy route at the Lake, do it!
stihlhead82 · · Belvidere, Il · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 85

When we were getting out of the car to climb there was a guy from the Netherlands waiting to climb with someone so we invited him and he lead this route, didn't really trust placing nuts in the roof, but he made it look easy and set the t.r. and I cleaned.

stihlhead82 · · Belvidere, Il · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 85
chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036
Andy Hansen wrote: Watching Dmitiry climb is always an exciting adventure! If you ever get the chance to belay him on Flake Route or any other hard/sketchy route at the Lake, do it!
I am not sure if this is derogatory or not, but when I've climbed with him he's been very cautious. :)
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195
Chris treggE wrote: I am not sure if this is derogatory or not, but when I've climbed with him he's been very cautious. :)
Dmitiry is definitely a cautious climber. It's just the routes that I have coincidentally belayed him on were on the sketchy/difficult side of things and it made for a very exciting belay. I think it's great that he goes after some of the harder routes at the Lake. Not derogatory, Chris.
chris tregge · · Madison WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 11,036

Should not have assumed the worst intent, but wanted to make sure since we all know him that it was clear!!! Take er easy.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,195

No worries.

Dave Meyer · · Santa Barbara · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 270

Has anyone considered placing a bolt to protect the roof section? I know that part of the line looks like weak rock but a bit to the right looks like it would be pretty solid. I'm planning to get on this route this weekend.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Pulling the roof and placing cams is crap, pull the line further right, it needs a bolt over there to protect it. See my comments here: mountainproject.com/v/river…

For the line to be altered I think the last bolt on the slab will need to be moved too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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