What was your biggest, scariest, or most destructive fall?
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Biggest: 60+ foot whipper off the top of Lone Eagle Peak, 7/29/2001. Leading off-route, I surmounted and started to pull off a refrigerator-sized flake, brain told hands to let go and I fell 20 feet past my partner onto a single 20 year old, Chouinard Camalot #1 which held. |
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Love reading through this thread. I think for weekend warriors like me the longest/scariest/stupidest falls happen during my "Darwin" period - ie the first 2 years of climbing. |
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60 feet on spaceshot in Zion. Supposed to be a C2 pitch, but seemed pretty hard to me, the crack was completely blown out and flared. I pulled 5 offset brassies on my way down and was finally caught by a BD nut. |
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Biggest I think it ended up being around 12,600' -- peanuts for some, but kick ass for me |
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My biggest, baddest and most destructive fall was 2.5 years ago on a bus in Vail. Blew out my knee, completely tore rotator cuff, bicep tendon and had a slap lesion. Major surgery and one year of rehab. |
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Nearly died, or wanted to die a couple of times in one day from this one: |
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It seems that were not hearing from the worst of the most destructive class . |
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Biggest, Scariest and Most Destructive Fall: 300 Feet
I was hit by an avalanche in Silverton with just one sling clipped on a small tree full of tat above a 10 meter high step. Topping out on the step, I almost dismissed this tree of cord and sling loops given the low angle slope in front of me, but at the last moment I clipped it with a draw thinking it was a free piece of pro. The team in front of us was rapping down the head wall into the gully so I gave them room and just sat in the gully to belay my second. They walked past me and into an alcove where my last and only clip was when I heard the thump high on the mountain, and then the running train sound of an avi on its way. With one hand I held my second on belay while turning to my stomach and digging in my crampon points. With my other hand I grabbed at my tool, swinging it into the slope with hopes that the avi would blow over top of me. Like the sands of time, I can still hear the ice crystals hissing as they began to fall from the head wall and on to my slope. Suddenly, it felt like the earth was shaking while being engulfed in noise and whiteness. I felt no pressure, just vibration all around me until I was lifted from the slope and was on my way. I quickly rationalized I had to turn to my back and keep my feet down the fall line while being careful not to catch a heal and begin to cartwheel. I instantly went over the 10 meter step below me where my second was still climbing, without the slightest hint I was airborne, and without impact below. I kept running down the gulley engulfed in a white cloud, still holding my second on belay, while trying to press my palm heals into the slope in hopes of arresting my fall. Up until then, the sensation of speed had been non existent, but all of a sudden I could feel my momentum slowing and for a split second I rejoiced in my mind that was was going to escape from disaster. Then, all of a sudden I felt my body loose contact with the slope and realized I was airborne. With a sudden jolt and tug I slammed into the slope. Like smoke clearing, the white cloud I was engulfed in kept going and left me in a heap on the slope, entangled in the dual cords of my double rope and the onset of pain. In the mean time, the party who rapped the head wall and had walked past me, had stood silently in the alcove unanchored as I and the white train went by them. My second, who I diligently kept on belay had been pulled up a 10 meter wall through the fury of the avi, and delivered to their feet, her harness pulled tight against the small tree of tat by my rope. Now beginning to make sense of it all, I could hear the party above me calling my name. I responded as in a quiet voice as I assessed that I could wiggle my fingers and toes despite the pain in my back. With my worst fear now practically dismissed with a wiggle of a digit, our voices began to connect and the process of lowering me down the climb began. I won't bore you with the details of the extraction, but it took a number of painful lowers, the help of mountain recuse to carry a litter down the waist deep snow of the slope below the climb, a snow mobile ride to the parking lot, and then a long ride by ambulance to the hospital in Durango. I suffered a fractured L3 and L4, 2 broken ribs, and some very battered lungs, but count myself as lucky. If not for that small tree of tat, I and my second would have likely been killed on that day. In the end all is well and I went ice climbing one year to the day of that faithful event. I have returned several times to repeat that climb, not as a show defiance, but out of thankfulness that I was spared that day. |
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I once took a fall THIIIIIIIIIS BIG |
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~30ft fall, was clipping the chains and right hand popped off, fell past the overhang part back to the slab beginning. Broke right leg and injured left leg. Long hike out..... Thanks for friends who helped. |
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25 foot ground fall on a FA attempt after a #4 BD wire pulled, about 3 miles into the backcountry via bushwack |
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Longest: the pitch started with maybe 40 ft. of easy ground. I had a .5 placed about halfway through. Then I placed a #2 right before the business started. It was a pretty blind placement but the size of the crack was right and big cams have a better margin of error than small ones... |
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Trad climbing at 14. I had been trad climbing since 12 but didn't understand that there was a fitness factor to climbing. I had red-pointed a certain 5.10 several times. After taking a year off I assumed that the same 5.10 would be an easy warm up, even though the first two pieces were more mental than physical. At about 20 feet I realized that I was shaking, the shaking had removed the two mental pieces below me, and then I fell and literally bounced off the ground. Lucky I was a young teen and nothing broke, but I still fear the combination of basalt cracks and cams. |
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I know this is a zombie thread, but I enjoyed reading the stories, and haven't written about this one before, so here we go... As I pulled through the mantle, slowly scraping my right foot up to get it on the sloping rail, I thought I had it nailed. Id been looking down at my right foot, and I turned my head to look at my left hand on the mediocre stabilizing crimp. Eyeing the thank-God crack above, I started to press through my feet and took my right hand off the rail to reach up for the crack. The instant I moved that right hand, my weight shifted left and back, almost imperceptibly, away from the wall. I knew immediately that the shift was irrecoverable, but the actual barn door felt almost leisurely, giving me what felt like several seconds to contemplate the ride I was about to go on, including the fact that I had never properly fallen on gear before. The spin from the barn door faced me to the right, while the fall itself took my body left, along a ramp on that side of the climb. Another couple inches of rope would have meant a broken tailbone for sure (at best), but I got away with no more than a cheese grater to the backside and a ripped shirt. The distance between me and the cams in the horizontal crack, plus the alpine draws (again, I KNOW), plus the rope stretch left me hanging ass-to-eyes with my partner back at the belay, somewhere between 25 and 30 feet below my high point. This one doesn't end with a triumphant return to the lead, either. I think my first words after several seconds of shared silence were, so were done for the day, right? Im also pretty sure that I was in mild shock. We bailed, collected the gear (although he actually TRed the route to get back to the walk-off from the top of the cliff), and got some recovery beers at one of SBs local taquerias. The big lesson that day was that the habits we had picked up from a bunch of easy multipitch extending all of our pieces on long, meandering pitches needed to be honed by some serious critical thinking. Nothing is gonna make that fall a short one if you blow the mantle, but extending those pieces could easily have been the difference between catching some fun-but-safe air, and an a pricey chopper ride to the ER. |
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I only solo top rope on my own, so if I'm taking big falls there is probably something else going on that shouldn't be! |
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I was once about 5 feet above my last piece (a quick-draw on a bolt) and my forearms were melting fast. I tried to lunge to the next hold which had a lot of chalk on it so I thought it would be pretty big. Unfortunately, the hold was kind of slopey and I was off. I swung down below the bolt and came to an abrupt stop. With rope stretch and slack I probably fell at least 13 feet. Very scary! At least I had an experienced belayer. |
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most scary: |
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Biggest: When I was 19, I took a 40' whipper off of Green Adjective in LLC. My closest stopper was in a flared portion of crack and I knew it was marginal. It blew and I ended up almost kicking my belayer in the head. The thing that amazes me is that I jumped right back on and finished the lead. Somewhere in the almost 20 years since, I've lost virtually all of that fearlessness. |
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Most Destructive: It's what took me out of climbing when I was 23, and I only got back in a couple years ago, at 43, when my kids wanted to start. |
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I HATE Ladders...... |