The "Classic" Maryland Climbs??

As a project for the winter, I'm trying to compile a list of the "classic" climbing routes in Maryland with the plan to hit them all in 2012. Why just Maryland? Cause I live there, I can most likely get to all these climbs in 2012, I wanted a goal-oriented project and I needed to limit the list in some way. In 2013 maybe I'll do the classics in WV or PA. But for now, I'm looking for input on Maryland. Ratings are irrelevant - flashing a 5.4 or falling off a 5.12 count for this experience. It's more about seeing and experiencing what routes are considered the best the state has to offer. I realize there is no set in stone definition for "classic." Fun? Must try? Unique? As a start, I have referenced Horst's and Indy's Maryland guides as well as the route info on MP to see what other climbers consider the classics. This is what I have so far -

Carderock - Cripples Crack, Sterlings Crack, Beginners Crack, Buckets of Blood Arete, Herbies Horror, Janes Face

Rocks State Park - Breakaway Right, Breakaway Left, Strawberry Jam, Vertical

Patapsco - Patapsco Slab, Midnight Lightening, Blue Rose, Middle Climb

Annapolis Rocks - Black Crack, Faints Roof, Wall of Wonder

Sugarloaf - Sherpa Connection, Seven Wishes

If any climber has other routes they think would make a good addition to this list, I'd love to hear them. Or any criticism on the routes already listed - I'd be interested in your opinions. It's just a fun project to give me some different direction and concrete goals for 2012 to go along with my usual haphazard destinations.

Thanks. jim

Love this thread. Feel like I could go on about this ALL-day.

Carderock: Art's Ardous Ascent or Triple A as its otherwise know. Butterfly and its variation Flutterby. Criple's sure. The Bulge on Nubble Face, Golden Staircase, Greenbucket. IMHO buckets of blood does not belong. The Diamond, Elsie's Other, Sterling's Crack, Herbie's Horror. If its good enough for Schwarma and Herb Conn its good enough for me.

Gotta get back to work-- was about to do Great Falls.

Strong second to Strawberry Jam:

mountainproject.com/v/straw…
(which you have listed)

Get on it early, the overhanging part of the crack is a bit pumpy.

If you can, get to Seneca. It's amazing. And get to the Gunks. Don't use state boundaries as your limitation.

cheers.
-chris

Gus's Gambit near Anglers Inn and PHD on Sherwin Island in Great Falls MD are worth adding to your list.

I think most people would agree that Blue Rose at Ilchester is a MD classic. Most of my favorite climbs not already listed haven't seen enough traffic to really achieve classic status though. The Way Life Should Be is an awesome layback flake at Bushwhack Rocks, and Spellbound is a beautiful crack that would be super classic if it weren't so short. At Sugarloaf, I really like Bloodguard, which I remember Indy saying at one point was his second favorite climb in the state. The Cording Traverse is also really fun. My favorite Sugarloaf climb is the "Pillar Project" that's still awaiting a name. I posted some photos and video a few months ago ( click here to check it out ) and just typing about it now makes me want to get back and climb it soon. Also, haven't actually climbed at Locust Grove yet, but did make a brief stop there and some of the routes looked fantastic.

Robin,
Where is spellbound? Do you have any photos of it?

--Wannabe

P.S. Smoke and Ash in Rocks is super short but man is that crack beautiful!

Spellbound

Here's a photo of the bottom portion, with the crack coming out of a couple of small overhangs. The crack itself is pretty short, I wouldn't think more than 20 feet, but still really fun. Also not a lot of gear placements above the crack, even though it's really easy ground at that point so you're really only protecting against holds breaking. And I agree with Mike Mu. that the climbs at Bushwhack are disappointingly short. Very fun while they last though, and some of the cracks are so even-sided that you can pretty much place gear blind.

Also agreed on Flake Called Lee at Sugarloaf, and I like the wide crack to the right of it too. Slow and Easy is pretty high on my list of climbs to check out. I would also recommend Reprise de la Bastille as a great easy lead.

Jim,

Good on you for sticking with your home area and climbing the classics there... especially Maryland. I, on the other hand as a MD native, would much rather move than go to all those places and have to TR most of those 'classics.' Your list is pretty solid, and I don't have any suggestions, but like another poster suggested, I'd spend more time doing some classics elsewhere. Perhaps after this, you should go somewhere to trad or sport a serious set of classics in an area.

I must say that after a few years of thinking TR was fun at Carderock and Great Falls, I am soooooo glad I moved west.

In general I'm all about local climbing, but would also agree that some of our semi-local spots are too good to pass up. I found that to be the case recently with the bouldering at Governor Stable. Part of me feels bad spending a lot of time there when I "should" be climbing in Maryland instead. Then I realize how ridiculous I'm being to limit the time I spend visiting some really amazing rock, just because it's 30 minutes across an imaginary line.

The access we have to these "semi-local" spots was really brought to my attention a few years ago when I had a friend visiting who had racked up first ascents all across the Himalayas and Patagonia, but envied my proximity to Seneca and the Gunks, neither of which he ever got to visit before he died.

Regarding Jeff's point about many of our "classics" being TR climbs, I think it should be noted that although most of them are usually done on TR, almost all of them make great leads. There have also been a few routes established in the last couple months that so far have only been done as trad leads, at least two of them in the 5.12 range. It'll never be Colorado, but there's plenty to do if you're willing to walk through the woods a bit. Not that I blame Jeff for moving out where the big rocks live :)

The Sign at Harper's Ferry is certainly a classic. Great position, fun climbing. Lots of other routes on Maryland Heights too including a fun pinnacle.