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Devil's Lake for one day?

Original Post
Ben Schuldt · · Bowling Green, KY · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Hello, all. I'm going to be in DL for one day in early June with the girlfriend and possibly a couple of non-climber friends. What are some must-do routes in the 5.3-5.9 range for a single day? Thank you!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Well check the online guide on this site for Wisconsin. Off hand, you want to do Brintons and Birch Tree cracks for sure. Classics right in that area atop the main CCC trail are numerous for leads or topropes. Upper Diagonal, Congratulations Crack, Pine Box, The Stretcher and many more.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255

I would suggest Brinton's Buttress. Easy to find, great views, easy to toprope, relatively short walk, and a bunch of classics.
For routes, Brinton's Crack (5.6) and the Direct (5.8) are fantastic, Boy Scout(5.3) is sorted here on Gill's Buttress, Berkeley(5.6) and Chicago(5.9) are also a lot of fun. If you get bored and the Pedastal Buttress isn't full, Birch Tree Crack(5.8+++), Upper Diagonal(5.9), and Lower Diagonal(5.7) are all classics.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Josh Olson wrote:I would suggest Brinton's Buttress. Easy to find, great views, easy to toprope, relatively short walk, and a bunch of classics. For routes, Brinton's Crack (5.6) and the Direct (5.8) are fantastic, Boy Scout(5.3) is sorted here on Gill's Buttress, Berkeley(5.6) and Chicago(5.9) are also a lot of fun. If you get bored and the Pedastal Buttress isn't full, Birch Tree Crack(5.8+++), Upper Diagonal(5.9), and Lower Diagonal(5.7) are all classics.
Lower D' a 5.7 now? My old book has it as 5.8 and I always had a tougher time on that than on Upper 'D. All good walls and routes in that area for a first time visitor to get the real feel of what the rock at the lake is like.
Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Woodchuck ATC wrote: Lower D' a 5.7 now? My old book has it as 5.8 and I always had a tougher time on that than on Upper 'D. All good walls and routes in that area for a first time visitor to get the real feel of what the rock at the lake is like.
I guess it could just suit me, but I felt it is definitely in the ballpark of Peter's Project.
I also have an easier time on Upper D than I have on Birch Tree, but everybody tells me Birch Tree is an .8...
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I"ve got THE move wired on BTC, but often get confused and out of sync on the upper part when reaching into the deep crack. Jam? backhanded grab? WTF.? I forget each time.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Woodchuck ATC wrote:I"ve got THE move wired on BTC, but often get confused and out of sync on the upper part when reaching into the deep crack. Jam? backhanded grab? WTF.? I forget each time.
Yeah, I have that move wired too, and I still think it is at least a .9, if not .10. Sandbag and a half. But I love the top half. Solid fist jams for me the whole way up.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Josh Olson wrote: Yeah, I have that move wired too, and I still think it is at least a .9, if not .10. Sandbag and a half. But I love the top half. Solid fist jams for me the whole way up.
Well if it's a sandbagged .10, it would be my most repeated 5.10 ever done, like maybe 100 times over the last 35 years? I don't think it's 'bagged that bad, not like other routes are.
Ben Schuldt · · Bowling Green, KY · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Thanks for the ideas, guys! I'll need to check out some of those routes~

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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