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Routes in Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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3 Strikes You're Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Air Swedin T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Big Baby, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bloombagged Again T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cal and Andy's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Christmas Tree T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Crack Attack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Digital Readout T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Disco Machine Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dogs in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Down in Albion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Elbow Vices T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fat Boy Slim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hole in the Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jagged Wedge, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Battle, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Like a Prayer T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Man Cave 5.10, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mayes, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Also Rises (Finger Lickin' Good var.), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Moon Also Rises (original var.), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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My awkward battle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mystery Machine, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New World Order T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pigs In Space T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quarter of a Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Railroad Tracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Road to Knowhere T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ruby's Cafe T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Ruins Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schrödinger's Cat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Seppuku Flake T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shadows of Tomorrow T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sheila Lonestar aka Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stella T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Stress Puppet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Swedin-Ringle T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Think Again T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Think Pink (Gone/Fell Down) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle (P2 12+, 90') T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Warm-up (JAFO) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiggins Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Pat Savageau |
| Page Views: | 16,760 total · 90/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Above the Swedin Ringle anchor the crack pinches down to a slightly offset seam. Reach left to the arete and climb it with some trickery before transferring back into the crack when it widens again. The arete is tenuous and any fall, especially at the crux, has the potential to be a big one! Finish in the steep, slightly crumbly right-arching fingers to thin hands crack. Spectacular! The route is sometimes climbed by placing some high cams in the crack instead of clipping the chains, but word on the street (see comments) is that the rock in the crack is pretty beaten up and it's probably better to just clip the anchor.
Location
Some will recognize this route from the Parallelojams video; most others will note that it is the oft-chalked extension to the prominent Swedin-Ringle. Lower with a 60m rope. The fixed "hardware" was pieces of static rope and carabiners in April of 2008 that was probably old.
Protection
Gear from very small to 1 inch. Doubles or triples of finger to hand pieces are useful. I found that it was possible to place a good small cam (spoiler: grey TCU, so maybe others like small C3s would fit) at some point during the crux, but the placement is mainly by feel and would be tricky to get right during an onsight. Based on a comment below, it's probably best to clip the anchor on Swedin Ringle, as the rock is somewhat soft in the crack and takes the brunt of the potentially large fall from the crux.
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