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 ADVANCED
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This wall has seen a good amount of development since the Ruckman guidebook. The Climbing is Fantastic!
The Balcony as viewed from <a href='/v/solitary-misdemeanors/106248169'>Solitary Misdemeanors</a>.
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10b on the far right of the wall.
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 18, 2012

A couple years ago, Darren, Perin, and I fought our way up the scree slope in the background to the obvious tower (which, unfortunately, isn't really a true tower). We put in an anchor at the top before realizing that we were actually not on the formation we'd originally wanted to climb. We had been aiming for something further up the gully. Oops.

If I remember right, we saw an old rusty fixed piton or something about 10 feet off the ground as we were rappelling down it. It looked like someone had tried climbing it from the ground up and then thought better of it. I don't blame them; the bottom part was that super chossy, flaky, shingled limestone. Yikes.

By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Apr 18, 2012

Funny you say that because i was sure that "tower" was the Arch, and thought its really not that far away, later i realized it wasnt the formation i thought it was. The Arch is much higher up. Perin was standing behind me when i took this picture, he mentioned he had bolted a line going up the Arch 11a/b i think. The balcony now has 8 pluse new routes, the approch Pitch has 5 more bolts then the ruckman states, now a total of 10. No longer rated R. I was very impressed with this wall...

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 18, 2012

Heh. That arch route (The Dark Side of the Rainbow) will be rumored to go at .11d the next time anyone hears about it.

I thought it was about .10c when I redpointed it. Darren thought .11a or so.

At some point Darren's Yellow Brick Road project will be finished and I'll post the details.

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10b on the far right of the wall.

Submitted By: Thomas Holmes on Apr 18, 2012
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