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old camalots vs. C4's weight

Original Post
Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388

So I have a set of the old style camalots that are still in great shape, but I am considering buying a new set of C4's for the weight savings in the pack. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find the specs for the old camalots so that I can do some quick math to see if I think that it is worth the money to buy a third set of cams.
I have tried Google, and the search function here, but I think my search skills are lacking.

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388

That is very helpful, thanks muttonface.
So here is the math from the article.
0.4-3 saves 5.1oz.
4 saves 1.2oz (vs old 4)
5 saves 2.1oz (vs old 4.5)
6 adds 0.5oz. (vs old 5)
edit 7.9oz saving so far, but there is no 3.5 which saves 10oz.
So overall 17.9 savings (over 1 lb).
Overall C4's from 0.4 - 6 weigh 71oz (4.4lbs)
Overall old set from 0.4 - 6 weigh 88.9oz (5.6lbs)

Not bad.

So I was thinking about swapping carabiners also.
10 neutrinos for racking cams at 1.3oz (36g) = 13oz.
Add 20 for 10 slings = 26oz.
So 39oz total

30 camp nanos at 0.8oz each is 24 oz.
So nanos save 15 oz (0.9lb).
2.1 pound savings total between new cams and new biners.
I'm sold.

Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? · · Vegas · Joined May 2005 · Points: 4,115

My rack is about 8-10 years old, and OMG, what a weight difference there is compared to the newer generation gear. My rack, compared to my boyfriend's newer generation rack (with about the same amt. of gear ) seems twice as heavy. I should weigh our racks, and compare for fun.

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,676
Darren in Vegas wrote:I am considering buying a new set of C4's for the weight savings in the pack.
I'm sure as soon as you buy a set of C4s, Black Diamond will come out with C5s and you'll probably be surprised at how much weight you could have saved if you had waited just a little longer...
Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388
John Hegyes wrote:I'm sure as soon as you buy a set of C4s, Black Diamond will come out with C5s and you'll probably be surprised at how much weight you could have saved if you had waited just a little longer...
That same thought has crossed my mind.
sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
Darren in Vegas wrote: 6.9oz saving so far
Good thing your job doesn't involve math. ;)
Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

This chart answers your question and has a bunch of helpful numbers:
clydesoles.com/Front/Camsbr…

Ben Burnett · · NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 70
John Hegyes wrote:I'm sure as soon as you buy a set of C4s, Black Diamond will come out with C5s and you'll probably be surprised at how much weight you could have saved if you had waited just a little longer...
Oh yes, BD already has prototypes out for the new C5s - although I doubt they'll save you much weight!

I stole the original photo - claim it if it's yours!
Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388
sqwirll wrote: Good thing your job doesn't involve math. ;)
more like good thing my job doesn't involve typing.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Ben Burnett wrote: Oh yes, BD already has prototypes out for the new C5s - although I doubt they'll save you much weight!
Weak photoshop. Try harder.
gary ohm · · Paso Robles · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

Sheesh are all you folk really that close to "the edge"? I mean if I have a healthy "morning constitutional" and ease up on the breakfast coffee I can hit or miss five pounds from one day to the next. I thought part of the lure of trad climbing was not worrying about weight. Where's my ham sammich and Pabst?

Ben Burnett · · NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 70
Ray Pinpillage wrote: Weak photoshop. Try harder.
Ouch, don't make me call the "Guideline #1 police" :)

Ok lets see you do better!
Nelson Day · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,315

Go here:

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

click on the compare tab under the picture. It has the size and weight differences of all their old vs new cams.

Or just look at this picture I got from the same place.

from Black Diamond website.

Ethan Henderson · · Washington · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 602

stick with the old cams, it's like saying 1 pound is work a few hundred bucks.

IMHO the old camalots had better sizing, the 3.5 and 4 fit better than the new 4. But thats just my opinion.

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

i've heard pube-shaving is an excellent means of cutting weight.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Darren in Vegas wrote: 2.1 pound savings total between new cams and new biners. I'm sold.
I crap bigger than this!
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200
Max Supertramp wrote:i've heard pube-shaving is an excellent means of cutting weight.
for a hundred buck you could take a couple nair baths.
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
Max Supertramp wrote:i've heard pube-shaving is an excellent means of cutting weight.
It's how I roll... just saying.
Nelson Day · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,315

I definitely appreciate the weight savings when climbing harder routes. A pound difference hanging off of your waist makes a noticeable difference! Especially when you are climbing multi-pitch. I like the thumb loop design better too; makes placing a bit easier when in a crunch. I bought my C4's used on the for sale forum. You can piece meal a full set together if you are patient.

My trad rack now weighs about 6.5 pounds, down from 8.5 pounds. I am using a full set of metolius master cams and 0.5 - 3 on black diamond. My weight savings was biggest in switching to Mammut Moses wire gates (from BD neutrinos) and ultralight curved nuts from Metolius (from BD nuts). If you replace 50 carabiners on your rack (consider your racking biners plus your alpine sling biners) you will save a pound of weight with the Moses carabiners over the neutrinos. The Moses biners are pricey though. Using the master cams will give you two extra cams for the same weight as a set of black diamonds. Two extra cams is a great help on longer routes. The ultralight nut set from Metolius will save you 1/3 of a pound over the black diamond nuts. I sold my black diamond nuts on the used gear forum for $45, bought the ultralight nuts on sale for $109, so it wasn't that bad out of pocket.

The noticeable difference from a lighter trad rack is where the weight is positioned. If your body weighs more, you don't notice it since it is distributed well over your whole body. Weight hanging off of your waist or a gear sling hangs in a concentrated load which is definitely noticeable. The alternative option: get stronger and don't worry about it.

Nelson Day · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,315
Greg D wrote: I crap bigger than this!
Actually, I was curious how much a crap weighed. Not much. Try it at home with a before and after body weight. Piss weighs a lot more. Probably TMI.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
Nelson Day wrote: Actually, I was curious how much a crap weighed. Not much. Try it at home with a before and after body weight. Piss weighs a lot more. Probably TMI.
Look turd nerd. You have no idea how big I crap. So don't stick your nose in my shit.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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