Mentally Preparing for RX routes

All things considered, you'll figure it out when you get to the bottom of the climb. It will either feel right or it won't. Don't force it and don't push it too far. However, as Mic said, sometimes you have to 'throw the switch' and go for it. You'll know it when it happens.

I hate giving this advice because it's a personal decision and yours alone. It's also a dangerous question that will invoke a wide range of comments.

Good luck

Stiles wrote:Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too

MOno did... way back at the beginning of the thread.

But yea, OP, it's a good read.

Knight of a Woeful Figure wrote:nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants.

be don quixote

Greg D wrote: Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion.

Yay, Greg D thinks I'm badass...

I'm with most everything John L is saying.

Belayer story: The first time I led Jules Verne, I had Candelaria holding the rope (like money in the bank). I climbed up the runout, got shaky, then climbed back to the rest. He yelled up "you were already past the crux!" As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay. I was glad to pay it forward.

Mic Fairchild wrote:Belayer story:As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay.

I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!

Hank Caylor wrote: I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!

Is that how you guys do it? I got up JV with maybe 2 pitches of gear climbing in the last 12 months. My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.

devkrev wrote: um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated.

It depends on the area. In New England, usually gear ratings go with the hardest moves, but I noticed some areas around West would have R/X ratings for say 5.9 moves on a 5.10 climb. The guides usually explain that or MP does.

I agree with what JohnL said - RPs, Ballnutz and small aliens give me some extra courage. A lot of times "R/X" mean that gear is "creative".

shuminW wrote: My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.

That's the true secret revealed right there. Lucky belayers was all old-school. Stick a camera/video crew next to the route, boom.

Hank Caylor wrote: a form of aid?!

Nah buddy, more like a form of flattery. Just saying that a good belayer can give you some extra psych and mental security.

Train, mentally practice the moves visualizing sending it. Get laid lots, party your brains out. Drink bunches of margs... Wake up the next day. Hurl your guts out on the approach. Imbibe some courage (guide food). Look up and realize it ain't too bad or big. Start sending and when you get scared think about sex.

Worked for me tons of times...

So sayeth The James.

I always felt that if you were going to hang it out a little, you should at least be having a good time! If you want to walk on the wild side you should be a little wild!

Just saying...

Gravitron FA, Enchanted Rock