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Ice Screws

Original Post
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Would a 11cm ice screw be too short for any real pro on waterfall ice?

???

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Depends on the quality of the ice........

I watched a "Stubby" in testing at Black Diamond and was surprised at the holding power......

BUT always follow the first rule in ice climbing......

NEVER FALL

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

How true! OK, thanks!

Mtn Ape XL · · Utah · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 131

Had a friend fall on a mixed climb....had only a 10cm with a Screamer attached...total length of fall was 15-20 feet...Screamer activated to it's fullest length...10 cm held the fall with the friend upside down looking his belayer in the eyes...so yeah, in good ice they do work..

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

OK cool and thanks.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

I place mostly 13's and when I'm worried about bottoming out a screw I'll sink a 10.
but yeah mostly just don't fall leading ice. It's not so much that I'm worried about screws pulling, I'm worried about breaking my ankles/putting a tool through my femoral artery.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Yeah I hear ya...some 25 yrs ago one of my buds broke his ankle when he fell top roping a WI climb when one of his crampon points snagged as he fell. Not good!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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