how to bolt new routes

although i have no intent in putting your advice into practice for fear of personal injury or death, i must pose this inquiry to all of you because my curiosity is getting the best of me. how do the shiny hangers that I trust my life to get there? while this question is pointed at terms of process, I am also curious as to equipment, material, rock type, technique, logistics, time, and much much more.

Nick Rhodes imitating Elenor with a sub entry level-troll?
Send me a $100 and I'll tell you how to tell the real ones you can trust from the fake ones.

Mike McHugh wrote: Nowadays, we use a "bolt trebuchet". The hanger, other hardware, and a lithium ion drill are loaded into one end of the trebuchet, and big-eyed orphans, sad clowns, and dogs playing poker (all rendered on luxurious black velvet) are loaded as counterweight. A highly qualified technician cuts the cord, screams "Hilti", and behold, a bolt is placed!

Dude, that is sooo yesterday.

We've been using 10 drops of Lochtite 648 mixed with 3 drops of hardware store super glue: simply push and hold a hanger over this mixed application for the time it takes to slam one PBR (~4-5 seconds). A few drops of super glue and a shaved bolt-head finish it up nicely, but that only lasts up to the 4th hanger - by then we're too buzzed to give a shit.
This works fine on all rock types.

BTW, we do still use the large-eyed orphans (but only those with stooped posture and brown or mis-matched eyes. . . someone has to carry the beer and mix the adhesives!)

Satan -

Nah, that sounds like too much work. Just drill the holes and put the bolts in, then send your helper around back to put the nuts on.

Sometimes bolts are preplaced during construction ( artmartgifts.com/?site_id=5…):

wish i had some otherwise useless knowledge to sequester.. how do you guys find time in your schedules to climb when youre so busy coming up with shit-eating answers to forum posts?

that pictures pretty good wayne, id always wondered.

Ha, that's awesome. Wish they could come build some of those in my neighborhood.

rdmil wrote:wish i had some otherwise useless knowledge to sequester.. how do you guys find time in your schedules to climb when youre so busy coming up with shit-eating answers to forum posts?

Assuming you're not a troll, what do you expect? As you acknowledge your self, bolting is a serious business and not gumby 101 territory. Asking about something that involves others lives online where you've given NO evidence of your skill set is gonna get flamed. You essentially said "Please tell me in as much detail as you can how you do this very important process. I swear I won't act on ANY of the info you provide." My 3 year old does something similar. "Daddy, I can I SEE that piece of candy? I don't want to eat it, just LOOK at it." Yeah right.

Besides, with a bit of effort there is a TON of info online regarding what you're asking about. With bolting, people want you to EARN the knowledge and experience.

rdmil wrote:wish i had some otherwise useless knowledge to sequester.. how do you guys find time in your schedules to climb when youre so busy coming up with shit-eating answers to forum posts?

Well, my shoulder's broke, so climbing is out for a bit. Dunno about the rest!

Point taken. Thanks anyways!

Lots of good info here, rdmill:

American Safe Climbing Association