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i need more beta!

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Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350

After our first trip to Moab/Creek im absolutely psyched to do some more desert towers. Something short and sweet 1 or 2 pitches 6 to 8 range preferably well protected by yellow cams or with featured cracks. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated! Thank you all!

Andrew Arredondo · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 175

Definitely go check out Fisher Towers - Ancient Art has a pretty sick mud chimney to climb. Takes 3-4 hours if no one is on it.

Also go and get some Castleton action, the North Chimeny would be a good start, and give the Kor-Ingalls route a try too. The approach here is a bit longer, but the climbing is well worth it!

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Only go to the fisher towers if you like climbing stuff that is more like vertical mud than rock. I will never go back there. There is so much good rock in the area (moab etc..., even just down the road)that I would never waste my time with those chosspiles again. That's just my opinion.

Have fun down there.

Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350

Any short towers available at that grade? Or what are your all's favorite climbs there? I lead at 5.6 5.8 trad 5.9 sport

Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350

More like short single pitch needles

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

South Sixshooter in Indian Creek and Owl Rock at Arches are just about it at that grade. I guess also a few obscurities in the San Rafael Swell like the Mother Goose and Swasey's Secret.

Ancient Art and anything on Castleton are big sandbags for a 5.8 climber.

Learn to do some easy aid or get solid at 5.9/5.10 trad and a lot more opens up.

Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350
Andrew Gram wrote:South Sixshooter in Indian Creek and Owl Rock at Arches are just about it at that grade. I guess also a few obscurities in the San Rafael Swell like the Mother Goose and Swasey's Secret. Ancient Art and anything on Castleton are big sandbags for a 5.8 climber. Learn to do some easy aid or get solid at 5.9/5.10 trad and a lot more opens up.
Thanx! I can aid some and walk cams. What do I need for the crux in Castleton? Kor Ingles route. It's pretty sandbagged I know. Any better routes on that tower?
Taylor Lais · · Black Hills, SD · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 70

Kor-Ingalls is well protected and has only 2 or 3 5.9 crux moves. Bring a double set of camelots from .4-4 and you will be set. The crux is also protected by bolts. Go do it, its an awesome summit. Two 60's to rap.

€ $t0& 960 €® · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55

We are going to do Castleton tower for sure I just think Kor-Ingalls is too sandbagged. Does anybody else think so? We are getting up that route but are there any others better? I mean more grade appropriate? We are making a whole day out if it too. Good luck kiddo!

John Maurer · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 530

Do Otto's in Colorado National Monument. Fun route, but frankly anticlimactic. Quickdraws, #4, and a tricam if you want extra security. Just don't get suckered into the NW corner route.

€ $t0& 960 €® · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55

South six shooter looks radical!

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Mitch Zimmerman wrote:We are going to do Castleton tower for sure I just think Kor-Ingalls is too sandbagged. Does anybody else think so? We are getting up that route but are there any others better? I mean more grade appropriate? We are making a whole day out if it too. Good luck kiddo!
It all depends on your offwidth skills. Some people breeze up the crux, others struggle hopelessly. If you're comfortable at 5.9 wide crack, go do it.

The North Chimney is a better option if you're unsure. The first pitch is phenomenal, and the OW section on the second is short.
MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

I don't think Kor/Ingsls is sandbagged. It is a pretty straight up 5.8 in my book. Sure the crux is wide but it is pretty darn easy.

As for easy desert towers......haha. If you are only leading at that grade you need a wee more experience. Many towers with a friendly rating can still be very stout and have long and scary sections. I MHO I recommend a lot of experience climbing cracks and sandstone first. Red Rock Canyon outside Las Vegad has loads of moderates.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269

What Mia said. Even South Six Shooter could be tough if you're climbing at your limit. it's a 5.6 choss for p1 and an unprotected mantle off the deck on last pitch.

try Mollar tower on River Road - fun 5.8 chimney protected by bolts!

chris berdoulay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I like Otto's Route. Also, you can easily pull on quick draws through the crux sections of Ancient Art keeping the route at 5.8 or so. The Owl in Arches is a fun one pitch tower as well. Kor/Ingals is another step up from these, although all belays are bolted and would be easy to retreat from. I would suggest being solid on 5.9 to have fun on that one though.

€ $t0& 960 €® · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55

Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination.

€ $t0& 960 €® · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55
Mitch Zimmerman wrote:Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination.
Although the tower looks cool
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Mitch Zimmerman wrote:Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination.
Otto's compressor is still hanging up there close to the summit ice mushroom, too.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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