i need more beta!
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After our first trip to Moab/Creek im absolutely psyched to do some more desert towers. Something short and sweet 1 or 2 pitches 6 to 8 range preferably well protected by yellow cams or with featured cracks. Any suggestions will be highly appreciated! Thank you all! |
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Definitely go check out Fisher Towers - Ancient Art has a pretty sick mud chimney to climb. Takes 3-4 hours if no one is on it. |
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Only go to the fisher towers if you like climbing stuff that is more like vertical mud than rock. I will never go back there. There is so much good rock in the area (moab etc..., even just down the road)that I would never waste my time with those chosspiles again. That's just my opinion. |
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Any short towers available at that grade? Or what are your all's favorite climbs there? I lead at 5.6 5.8 trad 5.9 sport |
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More like short single pitch needles |
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South Sixshooter in Indian Creek and Owl Rock at Arches are just about it at that grade. I guess also a few obscurities in the San Rafael Swell like the Mother Goose and Swasey's Secret. |
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Andrew Gram wrote:South Sixshooter in Indian Creek and Owl Rock at Arches are just about it at that grade. I guess also a few obscurities in the San Rafael Swell like the Mother Goose and Swasey's Secret. Ancient Art and anything on Castleton are big sandbags for a 5.8 climber. Learn to do some easy aid or get solid at 5.9/5.10 trad and a lot more opens up.Thanx! I can aid some and walk cams. What do I need for the crux in Castleton? Kor Ingles route. It's pretty sandbagged I know. Any better routes on that tower? |
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Kor-Ingalls is well protected and has only 2 or 3 5.9 crux moves. Bring a double set of camelots from .4-4 and you will be set. The crux is also protected by bolts. Go do it, its an awesome summit. Two 60's to rap. |
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We are going to do Castleton tower for sure I just think Kor-Ingalls is too sandbagged. Does anybody else think so? We are getting up that route but are there any others better? I mean more grade appropriate? We are making a whole day out if it too. Good luck kiddo! |
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Do Otto's in Colorado National Monument. Fun route, but frankly anticlimactic. Quickdraws, #4, and a tricam if you want extra security. Just don't get suckered into the NW corner route. |
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South six shooter looks radical! |
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Mitch Zimmerman wrote:We are going to do Castleton tower for sure I just think Kor-Ingalls is too sandbagged. Does anybody else think so? We are getting up that route but are there any others better? I mean more grade appropriate? We are making a whole day out if it too. Good luck kiddo!It all depends on your offwidth skills. Some people breeze up the crux, others struggle hopelessly. If you're comfortable at 5.9 wide crack, go do it. The North Chimney is a better option if you're unsure. The first pitch is phenomenal, and the OW section on the second is short. |
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I don't think Kor/Ingsls is sandbagged. It is a pretty straight up 5.8 in my book. Sure the crux is wide but it is pretty darn easy. |
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What Mia said. Even South Six Shooter could be tough if you're climbing at your limit. it's a 5.6 choss for p1 and an unprotected mantle off the deck on last pitch. |
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I like Otto's Route. Also, you can easily pull on quick draws through the crux sections of Ancient Art keeping the route at 5.8 or so. The Owl in Arches is a fun one pitch tower as well. Kor/Ingals is another step up from these, although all belays are bolted and would be easy to retreat from. I would suggest being solid on 5.9 to have fun on that one though. |
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Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination. |
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Mitch Zimmerman wrote:Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination.Although the tower looks cool |
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Mitch Zimmerman wrote:Otto's is a chipped route I don't know if its a good choice aesthetically. I think chipped routes are abomination.Otto's compressor is still hanging up there close to the summit ice mushroom, too. |