Mentally Preparing for RX routes

PTZ wrote:You climb those routes when you know you can climb those routes. You should know if you can ready. No one else can tell you if you are ready. It's your ass on the line.

True. If you have to ask anyone but yourself this question....then I can only assume you are in over your head on the particular route in question.

"I am Jerry Moffatt, I am Jerry Moffatt." If you can get a toprope up and rehearse it, you might be more comfortable. The hard trad routes I've done on lemmon have always been rehearsed which makes the lead much more comfortable mentally.

Yer Gonna Die!

fossana wrote:If the RX section is well below your max climbing ability, practice running out easier terrain or think 'when's the last time I fell on 5.6 (or whatever grade the RX section)'?

Heh. I'd always been of that school myself. Then I was leading a 5.7, off-handedly decided to put a piece in and fell a move after the piece. I had never fallen on a 5.7 lead. Period.

Not that I'm much of a soloist or r/x climber (I have only done a little of either).

As for the OP, mental prep probably varies, but the final mindset should be one where you feel absolutely in control and completely committed. No "what ifs" going on, just pure execution.

Bachar described climbing 10-15' at a time (knowing he could downclimb) and just reassessing and staying in the moment.

I respect all that but I just know that game really isn't for me. I think you will know when you are prepared to do a route and if that style of climbing is for you.

Steve Levin wrote: Capturing the right moment is as important as the desire, motivation and ability to climb a dangerous pitch.

When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff.

Shelton Hatfield wrote:Brent, if you're thinking of League of Doom, there are tough moves high above your gear on that first pitch. If you're confident on 5.10 slab, it shouldn't be a problem, but if you aren't, I suggest you rap in for the money pitches. EDIT +1 for being versed in downclimbing

Sometimes I feel great on slab, sometimes I take unexpected falls. I've onsighted several slabby 5.10's yet have also fallen on 5.9 slab. I've taken pictures of this route but have not gotten much info on people who have climbed it due to the poison ivy infestation!

A few tips:

Climb to your high point and try to push through. If not, feel all holds to think about/put together a sequence. Then down climb to your last comfortable spot.

Remember the down climbing/reversing sequence. I worry more about reversing 15 difficult moves or so without tripping over my own feet, more than I worry about knowing whether or not I can eventually put the moves together to top out.

I've had good luck with 0's, 00's and 000's; placed close together and for shorter falls.

~~TMS~~

You're fucked.
Seriously though...slip.
Down climbing is extremely important but you must prepare for the moment beyond retreat. If you cannot get your noggin on lock down and push through, yikes. Listen to your inner fear and figure out when you can trust it.
Better to be cautious than dead.

Are there ways that your belay can help? I've seen in some of the grit films sometimes twin ropes can help and sometimes your belay can run the opposite direction to keep you from a ground fall. Also a few pads may help. When I personally have done R climbs I tell myself over and over "no room for those thoughts, keep moving". But look at the bright side, soloing is way easier since you don't have to bother with gear.

You should have confidence in your ability to deal with the unknown, and confidence in your ability to climb at certain grades. If you aren't used to climbing high above gear on routes that are easy to moderate for you, then you're probably not ready to do so on hard routes. On the other hand, if you're happy soloing and climbing high above gear, maybe it is time to see how hard you want to climb w/ little to no protection.

Mentally bolt it.

Sometimes it's necessary to just 'throw the switch' and go for it on a route. But I've downclimbed and backed off plenty of stuff if it didn't feel right. I have obsessed about a route enough that I got up in the morning and was properly psyched for Route XXX that particular day. I'd recommend soloing a few easy routes to get your brain in shape, be prepared with a downclimbing option (I wrote a tech tip for Climbing a few years ago that's on their site), and be sure to have a belayer you can trust. A great belayer can really inspire me when I know that they're gonna catch me no matter how sketchy the situation. Bonus if you've got a belayer who's already done the route.

+1 for the ability to downclimb, which has saved my ass (with and without a rope) more than once

Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength

nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants.

If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.

adam brink wrote: When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff.

Edit because of the misguided responses below: Mic is badass. But, I do not follow others climber's accomplishments. Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion.

Greg D wrote:If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.

Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic].

Greg D wrote:If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't do it. But, if you think you are ready, this is the best advice here from someone that has really done it. All the rest are toproping, rehearsing wanna be's. Sorry wankers. No offense.

Umm. . . Mic Fairchild? Really? I guess our definitions of wanna-be's are considerably different.

Brent, if ya gotta ask, you aren't prepared enough. Seriously.

EDIT: Ha! You beat me to it Fossana

adam brink wrote: When Steve Levin talks about climbing runout routes you had better listen. He knows his stuff.

No doubt.
Not that I make a practice of doing R/X routes but Steve's advice resonates with me. There are those days when everything is right and it just happens.
I just wish I had more of those days, more frequently.

fossana wrote: Umm...I wouldn't exactly call Mic a toproping, rehearsing wanna be[sic].

I didn't and I wouldn't. All due respect to Mic. Did I mention him without knowing?

I did not mean in any way that if you are not Steve Levin, you are a wanker. I was just giving props to Steve and others that have done similar style routes. Geez. Get your panties out of the bunch.