Mentally Preparing for RX routes

How do ya'll mentally prepare for challenging RX routes?

1. Post on MP about how bold you are.
2. Recieve the "Yer gonna die"
3. Send.

This is a serious question.

Prepare? I use them to prepare for the stress of life. Puts things back in perspective.

Personally, I avoid them. Unless it is something mellow enough that I know I can comfortably (mentally) solo it. Other than that just remind myself to breathe and climb with confidence. and in the back of my mind tell myself that falling is not an option.

The first pitch is 5.10 RX but the 2nd and 3rd pitches of this route are classics, and I am dying to do them.

Brent Butcher wrote:This is a serious question.

Brent Butcher wrote:The first pitch is 5.10 RX but the 2nd and 3rd pitches of this route are classics, and I am dying to do them.

Are you intent on onsighting the route and/or climbing it "ground up"? If not, you might consider toproping the first pitch.

Assuming you would prefer a ground up ascent, but are not intent on an onsight, talk to other people who have climbed the route, look for photos or video, and try to get an idea of any specialty gear that might be helpful, get an idea of where the crux is and how well its protected etc.

If you want to preserve the onsight, climb nearby routes at the crag, and try to get a good look at the route from as many vantage points as possible. Go through the "Rock Warrior's Way" processes of identifying potential gear placements, decision points, etc. Spend some time climbing routes of similar style at the same crag to get practice with that type of climbing, and to get a good understanding of your ability with respect to the 5.10 grade at that crag. Figure out when the best time to climb the route is (in terms of weather, temp, humidity and sun exposure). Figure out what makes you perform best in a risky situation (i.e. do you prefer solituded, just you and your ropemate, or do you want a gallery of holering houligans) and make arrangements to replicate those conditions. If you plan to do a lot of this, you might want to start practicing donw-climbing, which is an often over-looked remedy for foolish enthusiasm.

Once you have all the information, wait for the point in your climbing season when you're fit, your head is solid, and you feel like you're climbing well. Ideally some point when you're "on a roll" so to speak. Have your partner dial 9-1, then start climbing...

Brent Butcher wrote:The first pitch is 5.10 RX but the 2nd and 3rd pitches of this route are classics, and I am dying to do them.

Treat it like you're soloing.

The first thing I like to figure out is whether it is a mental or physical R/X. Being willing to take a fall if its physical and relatively safe, and/or knowing that I can't fall if its a mental and I should be able to do the moves. It all comes down to knowing your physical and mental capabilities. Warming up on easier but still sketchy lines will help you gauge where your at.

Monomaniac wrote:. If you plan to do a lot of this, you might want to start practicing donw-climbing, which is an often over-looked remedy for foolish enthusiasm.

5.10RX doesn't mean that the RX section is necessarily 5.10. If the RX section is well below your max climbing ability, practice running out easier terrain or think 'when's the last time I fell on 5.6 (or whatever grade the RX section)'? If it closer to your limit, I would mentally break down the section into boulder problems to make them more manageable. This is the same approach I use for soloing.

bring the pieces of gear just for that pitch and and place them. Get to anchor and haul up the rest of the rack for the climb. (Save Weight).

-Go climb some highballs with your rack on.
-Sack Up
-see if you are really "dying" to do it.

or Aid climb the pitch and find all your gear possibilities.

fossana wrote:5.10RX doesn't mean that the RX section is necessarily 5.10. If the RX section is well below your max climbing ability, practice running out easier terrain or think 'when's the last time I fell on 5.6 (or whatever grade the RX section)'? If it closer to your limit, I would mentally break down the section into boulder problems to make them more manageable. This is the same approach I use for soloing.

devkrev wrote: um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated.

devkrev wrote: um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated.

learn about down climbing. It will help loads.

Brent, if you're thinking of League of Doom, there are tough moves high above your gear on that first pitch. If you're confident on 5.10 slab, it shouldn't be a problem, but if you aren't, I suggest you rap in for the money pitches.

EDIT +1 for being versed in downclimbing

Regardless of how any one individually prepares his/her self for a run-out route, most R/X rated routes are rated so because there is potential for a fall that can seriously injure or kill. If you are going to make hard moves high above your last piece you should be very confident at the grade and/or very familiar with the moves. Beyond the physical ability needed, you have to have the mental ability to take advantage or the pro you DO get and keep it together while climbing.

This is what I remind myself when I consider climbing any such route. Falling is not an option and if there is any reasonable doubt I probably shouldn't be on the route. Once I pass my own mental test I prepare just like any other route.

You climb those routes when you know you can climb those routes. You should know if you can ready. No one else can tell you if you are ready. It's your ass on the line.